Crimson tree "Krepysh": characteristics and agrotechnology of cultivation

The employment of modern gardeners is constantly pushing them to search for a new raspberry variety, which combines several useful qualities - ease of care, no prickles, which can hurt your hands when harvesting, large and tasty berries, high yields and no need to tie plants to the support . All these qualities are characteristic of Crimson "Krepysh". This article provides advice to gardeners on how to choose a sapling of this raspberry variety, how to plant and how to care for it in the future to ensure a good harvest of berries.

Selection

The raspberry Krepysh raspberry or raspberry tree is one of the finds of the famous Russian breeder V. Kichina. Raspberries obtained at the beginning of the two thousandth's in the nurseries of the Kokinsky strong point.

Description and features

"Krepysh" - large-fruited medium early varietyits ripening begins from the second decade of June and lasts until the twentieth of July. The highlight of the variety is that its bushes do not need a garter and there are absolutely no thorns on them. They are thick and erect - freely keep a huge crop on their branches, which do not even lean under the weight of the fruit.

Bushes

Raspberry "Krepysh" is a thorny berry bush without thorns, with a limited point of growth. Fruiting of this variety comes in the second year of life of the shoots. The adult raspberry gives a crop and dries out, its place next year will be taken by the present green growth.

The height of the vines of this raspberry varies from 1.4 to 1.8 m. The variety has very thick stems, the diameter of the sturdy vines reaches 1.5-2 cm. There are very small internodes on the stems, which guarantees the appearance of a large number of side branches, on which the main crop will be formed.

On the raspberry branches absolutely there are no spikes, the peel on the trunks of plants is smooth, like on currant bushes.Young single-stem stems have a green stem color, a biennial plant changes the color of the trunk to pine-yellow. The shape of the bush begins at 30-40 cm from the surface of the soil, the leaves are dark green, rough, with a strongly corrugated leaf blade. At the top of the bush the leaves are arranged in a bunch of bunched up The two-year-old raspberry bush of this variety gives very few young shoots, which, on the one hand, makes its reproduction difficult, and on the other hand, the gardener does not have to fight every year with the uncontrolled shoots of raspberries that fill his garden.

The fruiting area on the raspberry of this variety is located in the second upper half of the stem. Laterals (side branches) are not long, the berry sits on them compactly. Berries do not ripen at the same time., from the inflorescence of the formed berries (in the amount of 6-9 pieces) in the ripeness stage there can be only one - the rest will be green, and their gradual maturation will stretch up to 10 days. Harvesting from raspberry bushes, on which there are no thorns at all, is sheer pleasure!

Berries

The bushes of this variety are covered with large berries. The yield of raspberry "Krepysh" is very high, but the berries sit tightly on the stone, and when removed they can crumble into fragments. If the berries are not picked on time, they will not crumble, but will gradually dry out on the fruit sprigs.

Characteristic berries:

• dull red, not shiny;
• berries are very large;
• the weight of one raspberry 7−9 g;
• the berry has the shape of a wide cone, similar to a round cap that can be put on the thumb;
• fruit taste - sweet with a slight sourness;
• berry firmly rests on the drupes, but with a rough removal from the branch can be scattered into fragments.

Ripening and yield

Fruiting of this variety starts from June 15-17 and lasts until July 10-15. Terms of ripening berries can move in one direction or another. This is influenced by the weather: in sunny weather, ripening is faster, and with prolonged rains the berries ripen more slowly and their taste changes for the worse.

In the characteristics of this variety declared yield of 4-5 kg ​​of berries from a well-developed adult raspberry bush. In practice, the yield of the Krepysh variety on ordinary horticultural plots (when grown without the use of super-agro methods) varies within two to three kilograms of fruit from a bush. But it is also very, very high yield.

Winter hardiness

"Fortress" has been grown for over ten years in different regions of our country, which means. Passed extensive trials of heat and frost. Cultivation practice has shown that this variety is frost resistant and without any harm for itself tolerates short frosts. to -30 ° C. Low temperatures to -20 ° C are generally not critical for the Raspberry Krepysh.

Using

Large beautiful berries "Krepysha" juicy and sweet. The ratio of sugar and acidity in them is very harmonious. The berries are quite transportable and allow transportation over short distances. During the period of mass ripening, raspberries become so juicy that in the process of transportation they release the juice within three to five hours.

Therefore, this berry is transported in the first half of the fruiting variety (until the end of June) - further fresh transportation is meaningless.Due to its excellent taste and juiciness, the berries are used to make juices for baby food, sweet liqueurs, jams, jellies, mousses, confiture and compotes.

The classic recipe for raspberry confiture -"five minutes":

• a kilo of berry is passed through a meat grinder or ground by a blender;
• crushed raspberries are placed in a container for boiling jam and set on fire;
• 1 kg of sugar is added to a well-heated berry puree and boiled over low heat;
• from the moment of boiling, the sugar mixture is boiled for 5 minutes.

Raspberry confiture, "five minutes" is ready, it is poured into jars and left for winter consumption.

What qualities should have a good, healthy raspberry seedling "Burly":

• young seedling shtambovogo grade should have a trunk diameter in diameter of not less than 1 cm;
• at the base of the stem should be several well-developed buds, fruit vines will grow from them;
• for young raspberries, a well-branched root system with many small roots (lobe) is important;
• it does not matter at all whether the proposed seedling is trimmed, since the stem of a raspberry is still trimmed when planted.

Choosing the right place

Raspberry loves cozy, windproof areas. When choosing a place, it is necessary to take into account the preferences of the plant and lay the future raspberry jam under the protection of the fence or wall of any building. Summer winds do not interfere with the plant, but the winter, icy winds that carry frost with them, can lead to the freezing of crimson landings.

Lighting

Raspberry responds well to planting in well-lit areas. If the summer resident has such an opportunity, then the rows of raspberries are better located from south to north. Such an agronomic reception will allow the plant to be sunlit during the day longer.Raspberry plantations, planted in sunny and humid places, produce higher and better quality crops than those located in the penumbra.

The soil

The Krepysh raspberry plantation can only show the yield stated in the characteristics of the variety if it is planted in well-fertilized soil.

Raspberry ground should have:

1. Loose composition, which well passes oxygen and moisture to the roots;
2. Enough minerals and nitrogen.

If the soil is depleted, all these components need to be added to it. To do this, scatter the substances in the area where there is a shortage (humus, manure, chalk, sand, lime or humus) and dig up the soil with the turnover of the formation.

Preparatory work before landing

If on the summer cottage dominated by poor soil, containing clay, they need to make lime (chalk) in the form of powder or wood ash. These substances are scattered on the ground before it is dug up. The introduction of these substances is simple to calculate: for every square meter of land they take a pound of lime and 2-3 handfuls of wood ash.

To increase the soil fertility, natural fertilizers (cattle manure, humus or compost) or mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen (nitrate,nitroammofosk);

All fertilizers are also laid out on the ground and are buried in the soil by digging. Fertilization can be combined with the application of chalk, lime or wood ash. Natural fertilizers are applied at the rate of 10 kg of manure or humus per square meter of berries. Mineral fertilizers are measured by gardeners in matchboxes: one matchbox of saltpeter or three matchboxes of nitroammofoski per square meter of soil.

Planting seedlings on the site

Before you plant a new variety on the site, you need to mark up the beds for the future raspberries. The marking of the beds is carried out with the help of pegs and a cord stretched between them.

Along the borders of the beds, after the cords are stretched along its borders, fertilizers are laid out on the soil surface. Next raspberry should be dug up.And the last stage of forming a raspberry bed: the gardener, passing along the future berry, rakes the soil from the middle of the bed to its sides.

The bed turns out to be slightly arched to the middle (like a trough or a boat). This form will help the plant grower in the further care of plantings: watering the beds or applying liquid fertilizers, you can not worry that the liquid will flow out of the raspberry field. All the moisture will leave exactly the roots of the plants for which it was intended.

Landing pits are digging along the finished markings for landing. It is not necessary to lay fertilizer in them, since the soil under the raspberries is sufficiently fertilized beforehand. A water bucket is poured into each pit and, after being absorbed, the seedling is installed vertically with neatly straightened roots. The plants are covered with earth and watered again. This contributes to the fact that the soil is compacted and envelops the roots of seedlings.

Timing

Raspberries can be planted in the fall and in the spring, but with the autumn planting, young plants have more time for adaptation and rooting than in the hot summer period.

If the gardener has decided to hold a spring planting, then it should be done in early April, before the leaves bloom on raspberries.In the fall, seedlings are planted from late September to late October.

Scheme

Raspberry tree "Krepysh" is a standard and not too high variety, so the distance when planting between two berry beds can not be made more than 1.5 meters. This is a convenient distance for further care of raspberries.

"Fortress" can be landed:

• in a single row landing - when the width of the berry beds in 1.5 m plants are planted along the beds in one row (keeping to the center). The distance between seedlings should be at least 50 cm. In the process of growth in subsequent years, the roots of raspberries will fill the whole bed.

• in a two-row landing - with the same width of the beds, as in single-row planting, the plants are planted in two rows.
  Important! In order to correctly mark the presence of two landing rows relative to the center of the bed, from the middle of the bed measure 35 cm to the left, this will be the left row of the raspberry. In the same way, they retreat from the center of the bed 35 cm to the right - the second row of landings will begin here.
  The distance between the raspberry seedlings is 50 cm, the distance between the two rows is 70 cm. When planting, the seedlings in the adjacent rows are arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

Seasonal care features

The very planting of a good raspberry variety will not provide the cottagers with abundant crops - be sure to take care of it all year round: fertilize, water, cut, protect from diseases and pests, mulch. If the gardener complies with all these conditions, the plantings will be healthy and fruits will be plentiful.

Watering and mulching

One of the conditions for obtaining a good harvest when planting raspberry "Krepysh" in the open field is good care and the complete absence of weeds in the garden. Monotonous weekly weeding not only exhausts the gardener, but can contribute to mechanical damage to the roots of berry bushes.

This can be avoided if the bed is mulched early in the spring. For mulching, you can use sawdust, shavings, last year’s leaves, peanut husks or sunflower seeds.

Raspberries loves watering very muchWithout enough moisture, raspberry flowers can crumble without tying berries. Raspberry roots are not spread deep, but rather horizontally below the surface of the ground. Therefore, without getting water, the roots dry quickly, and the plant may die.

During the fruiting period crimson beds need weekly abundant watering. If there is a water supply on the plot, then it makes sense for the gardener to spread out along the planted rows of a drip irrigation tube.

So watering will not take time gardener, and moisture will go to the roots of plants regularly and on time. On the 10-meter bed of raspberry plant you will need 300-400 l of water.

Top dressing

During the growing season, the plants pull out all the nutrients from the ground, and the gardener must replenish them in the soil. The best fertilizer for berry crops is natural organic fertilizers. They have the right raspberry nitrogen, calcium, potassium, and phosphorus.

And the most important thing is that all these substances are in a state accessible for consumption by plants. In order to carry out dressing with organic matter in a dry form, it is simply spread (laid out) under the root of vegetative plants.

If organic fertilizers are not rotten, of them prepare liquid concentrated infusion:

• one shovel of fresh chicken dung or cow dung is put into the bucket;
• filled with clean water to the top and closed with a lid;
• capacity is placed for fermentation in the sun;
• once every three days, the contents of the bucket are shaken with a wooden mixer;
• after 10-14 days the concentrated fertilizer is ready for use.

Feeding with wood ash is very useful, there is a lot of potassium in it. It is made by simply sprinkling it at the roots of a plant or pollinating ashes raspberries over a leaf. Wood ash does not require accurate dosage when making, one or two handfuls per square meter is enough.

The introduction of ammonium nitrate will give the berry fertilizer with nitrogen. To this end, in winter or late spring, even in the snow, a mixture consisting of ammonium nitrate and urea is scattered over the raspberry pancake. For each square meter of berries, a dose of 10 g of ammonium nitrate and 8 g of urea is calculated. Together with the melt water, the fertilizers will be washed away and absorbed by the roots of the plants.

Preventive treatment

If the gardener neglects the preventive treatments of the berry, he will not get a good harvest. The main processing raspberries are carried out immediately after the snow melts and the soil dries out in the garden.

Experienced gardeners try to do all the treatments before the raspberry buds swell and begin to blossom:

• To increase the immunity of plants to raspberry diseases (anthracnose and gray rot), urea is treated (15–20 g per square meter) and treated with copper sulfate (50 g of the substance is mixed with 5 liters of water).
• Further processing of plants with copper sulfate is undesirable, since raspberries tend to accumulate it in the form of nitrates in berries.
• If the disease anthracnose, powdery mildew or raspberry rust has already begun, then planting can be cured by spraying with Bordeaux liquid (Topaz and Nitrofen preparations).
• The main enemy of raspberries is a raspberry weevil. The main attack of this insect on raspberries begins during the formation and pouring of berries, therefore, it can only be fought with biological preparations.
• For pest control gardeners prepare mustard infusion.In 5 liters of cold water 10 g of dry mustard is added, it is all mixed up, covered and left to stand overnight. In the morning the infusion is ready to eat. Apply it to the plants with a garden sprayer.

Support

Standard raspberry does not need additional supports. Thanks to its thick and durable stalk, it does not bend even in very strong winds. Standard raspberries are very convenient to grow in industrial plantings, which occupy dozens of hectares at once.

She herself is a mainstay, and farmers have to spend extra money on the installation of mobile lanes and plant garters. Raspberry "Krepysh" without outside help keeps its considerable harvest on the branches.

Pruning

Pruning raspberry "Krepysh" is carried out in the spring, as soon as the warm weather sets. Immediately you need to clean the raspberry from the dead, cutting it with garden shears at the base of the bush. At the berry branches, which will bear fruit this season (the stems of the second year of life), the tops are cut by 10-15 cm.This will help to properly distribute the crop throughout the raspberry stalk and stimulate the formation of lateral fruit twigs.

Particular attention when pruning a gardener must turn to the thickening of the raspberries. On one square meter of the berry should be no more than 12-15 raspberry stalks. The excess vine is also cut out by the shears from the ground itself and taken out of the site.

Preparing for the winter

In order for the “Fortress” to win over without any problems, he needs to prepare it. To do this, the gardener at the end of the warm season (August - mid-September) feeds the raspberry nursery with phosphorus and potassium. Potash and phosphate fertilizers give impetus to the additional development of the root lobes of the plant and the ripening of the aboveground stem. Plants with a powerful stem and mighty root system calmly and without stress will survive great frosts.

With such maintenance in the winter season, the plant grower is by no means must not apply nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen-containing substances do not strengthen plants, but stimulate them to rapid vegetative growth. Instead of preparing to survive the cold period, raspberries begin to actively grow the leaves.These leaves will fly around in a month, but the plant will already give them the necessary strength for wintering.

In the agricultural technology of growing raspberries there is such a procedure as sub-winter wet-load irrigation raspberry cake

The bed with raspberries is watered even before the onset of the first frosts (end of October - beginning of November). For each square meter of berries should pour up to 50 liters of water. To carry out such watering before winter is to ensure a good harvest of berries for the next year.

The description of the raspberry variety Krepysh includes a good winter hardiness, but if there is little snow in winter and frosts above -15 ° C, the gardener can help his plants survive the cold. With the help of a shovel you need to get snow in a raspberry bed. This will protect the shallow roots of raspberry from frost and provide additional moisture-absorbing irrigation in the spring.

The crimson tree appeared in our gardens not so long ago, but, having passed the test of snow, rain, frost and lean years, with honor survived all the hardships. Every year the variety pleased summer residents with an excellent harvest of large and fragrant berries. Raspberry "Krepysh" in our berry-berry became not a random guest, but a full-fledged resident.