Pros and cons of Lubskaya cherry in your garden

There are a huge number of varieties of cherries, which are common in various climatic zones. Our article is devoted to the "Lyubskaya" cherry, which has been grown in the gardens of Russia since 1947. Let's talk about how to choose and plant a sapling, let's deal with the care, advantages and disadvantages of the variety.

Description

Discussion cherries "Lyubskaya" begin with a description of the variety.

Externally, the tree has a bushy structure of the aboveground part, the maximum height is 3 meters. The crown is wide enough, not dense, sprawling. The bark is grayish-brown, covered with small cracks. All shoots are curved, moving away from the trunk at an acute angle. Sheet plates are not very different from other varieties, but it is still worth paying attention to them. The leaves are painted in the usual dark green color, have a width of 5 cm, a length of about 8 cm.Plates are narrow, with pointed edges and notched framing.

The buds are bright white, have a diameter of just over 3 cm. The cup is colored green, goblet.

The berry is large, has a rounded shape. At the time of removable maturity is painted in dark red color. Immature cherries keep firmly on the stalk, after ripening, only a small part crumbles.

Features of growing

Consider the features of cultivation, which determines the feasibility of planting a tree in your garden. Let us discuss the main nuances that affect the yield and general condition of the plant.

Climatic conditions

In order to know exactly in which regions it is possible to grow this variety of cherries, let us turn to the State Registry. The variety is recommended for planting in the following regions:

• Central;
• Northwestern;
• Central Black Earth;
• North Caucasus;
• Middle Volga;
• Lower Volga.

Since the lifespan of a cherry depends on the winter temperature, it is impossible to plant a variety in the northern regions. If you plant, then get ready for the fact that the tree can not live even 10 years.

Soil for wood

Cherry "Lyubskaya", following reviews of many gardeners, develops best of all and bears fruit on sandy or loamy soil. The soil should be quite fertile, have a large amount of minerals in the composition. If you plant a cherry in chernozem, the tree will develop no worse, and the yield will be close to the maximum possible.

Planting cherries "Lyubskaya"

Next, we will deal with the nuances of planting a tree, which will help to avoid unpleasant moments and to achieve a quick survival of the seedling.

Selection of seedlings

Not only the yield and quality of the fruit, but also, as a rule, the variety or even the type of the tree depends on the right seedling.Especially this problem is relevant when buying seedlings on the mass markets, where instead of varietal cherries you can sell a wild game or a completely different tree. Therefore, take the choice as seriously as possible so as not to spend a huge amount of resources on the cultivation of a useless tree.

First of all, we look at the root system. The length of the main taproot should be at least 30 cm. Also, the root system should be represented by a large number of side roots that depart from the main. Next, carefully inspect the root system.

Any growths, decay, damage or incomprehensible colored spots should be absent. Initially, a sore tree may die after planting, and if it takes root, then you should not count on a high yield.

Recall that roots, like all other parts of the tree, must have access to oxygen. If the rhizome is wrapped in cellophane, then it can simply “suffocate”, and the increased humidity in the absence of oxygen leads to the formation of various fungal diseases.

It is also worth avoiding seedlings with a dry rhizome, since you will spend an enormous amount of time onto remove the seedling from the comatose state, and further survival will depend on the amount of time during which the roots were dry.

So try to buy seedlings, the roots of which are in the earthy coma or, in extreme cases, in the water. Repeat a few times about when the seedling was dug, and best of all - buy young trees in nurseries, in which the plant will be removed from the substrate only after purchase.

As for the crown, it should be well developed. The presence of any damage, stains or growths is not allowed. If the crown is devoid of leaves, then it is worth asking to make a small incision on the bark, which will show if the tree has withered (and sometimes it happens). Next, inspect the bark for large cracks. Since this variety suffers from frost precisely because of cracked bark, you should not buy a seedling on which the protective layer was originally damaged.

To not sell you a completely different tree, first of all look closely at the color and thickness of the bark. The bark should be gray-brown, thin, without any dark or light stripes.Slight cracks are allowed, as they are a feature of this variety.

After buying a seedling before planting, it is necessary to protect from direct sunlight, and the rhizome, if it is devoid of earthy clod, wrap in sackcloth or paper.

Scheme and technology of landing

Landing should not be delayed for several days to keep moisture in the tree. Only in the case when the rhizome must be given time to soak, with the landing, you can wait.

First, choose a sunny open area on a hill that is not blown by the northerly winds and is maximally protected from drafts.

Next is to evaluate the acidity of the soil and as close as possible to its neutral indicator. Cherry is very critical of acidity, so even a small deviation will negatively affect the process of absorption of useful substances and trace elements from the soil. Now it's time to dig a hole under the sapling. Many gardeners recommend pre-digging a hole. Some argue that the hole under the tree should be dug six months before planting, others - in a month.

We recommend that you wait at least 2-3 days so that the tree will stick better.

We remind that it is possible to carry out landing both in the spring, and in the fall. Autumn planting is preferable in the southern regions, as over the winter the tree will have time to acclimatize, and in the spring it will grow.

We dig a hole of such depth and width so that the root system, after immersion in it, does not occupy the whole space. The optimum radius is 40 cm, the depth is 60 cm. We form the walls of the pit with vertical ones, so that the soil does not settle too much.

Digging the hole, we divide the entire earth mass into two parts. The first part is the upper, more fertile soil, which we will use for planting. The second part is the lower ground, which can be removed to any other place, it will not be used for planting. Top soil mixed with humus / compost and mineral fertilizers. The amount of each component can be slightly increased or decreased, depending on the volume of soil extracted from the well. On average, per 1 well add 30 kg of humus, 1 kg of phosphate rock and 150 g of potassium sulfate. Mix thoroughly so that the roots are not in contact with the "mineral water".

Next, pour limestone rubble (which will dampen the acidity of the soil and serve as drainage) to the bottom of the hole and drive in a support peg, which should protrude 1 m above the ground level.

After that, in the center of the hole we make a small mound (about 20 cm) of ordinary soil taken from the site. Immerse the seedling so that the center of the root system "sat down" on the earthen mound, straighten the roots and carefully fill the hole with soil mixture.

When the hole is completely filled, you should carefully tamp the soil and, if necessary, fill a little more soil. In the end, pour the seedling with 2 warm water buckets.

If the plot where the cherry is supposed to be planted was previously used for agricultural purposes, then you should enrich the soil with mineral water and humus / compost.

The following list of supplements should not be embedded in the planting pit, but in the soil around the hole so that the developing rhizome receives all the necessary elements and nutrients in time.

On 1 square. m make the following:

• humus or compost - 10 kg;
• superphosphate - 100 g;
• potassium sulfate - 100 g

If you plant several trees at once, then use one of the suggested schemes:

1. For small areas, we use the 2 x 2.5 m scheme.
2. To get the most sprawling crown we land according to the 3 x 3.5 m scheme.

Proper care of the plant

Plant care involves not only timely watering, but also fertilizer application, as well as the correct formation of the crown, which determines the number of berries and their size.

Watering and feeding

We begin to water the cherries after swelling of the kidneys. It takes about 30 liters of warm water (it is warm to speed up the process of green mass formation) at a time. It is necessary to moisten the soil throughout the entire growing season, and after dropping the leaves it is recommended to carry out moisture-charging autumn watering.

Since during the planting we made sure that at the initial stage the cherry had all the substances necessary for the growth and development and a sufficient amount of organic matter, we carry out the following full dressing only 1.5-2 years after planting. During the growing season, you need to feed the tree twice with humus or compost after an equal period of time. In the fall, we close up phosphorus and potash fertilizers in the near-stem circle, and nitrogen fertilizers in the spring. It is not recommended to add feedings that comprise the entire NPK complex, since nitrogen is required only in spring, during the recruitment of green mass.Falling nitrogen into the forest will cause a lot of damage to the tree, so it will continue to increase the green mass at the moment when you need to shed the leaves.

Soil care

In order not to waste time on constant weeding and loosening, immediately after planting the cherry, it is better to grind with peat or humus. If for one tree it is not so important, then for a large planting it is necessary to use mulch. After you mumble the trunk circle, weeding and loosening are not required. Also under the mulch weeds do not grow, and the soil does not lose moisture and does not overcool / overheat.

If for one reason or another you did not mulch the tree trunk, then you need to constantly loosening the roots to get access to oxygen. To loosen the soil should be exclusively in the morning or after sunset. It is worth remembering that even after mulching, the radical neck must be higher than the substrate, otherwise it may rot.

Cropping and crown formation

The first two years after planting, we do not recommend touching the above-ground part of the tree in order not to harm the weak tree.The only thing that needs to be done at the moment of growth of a sapling is to pin a growth point so that the tree does not form a crown in height, but grows in width. After 2 years from the time of planting, pruning is carried out 2 times a year - in spring and autumn. During the spring pruning, we need to shorten the overgrown branches, as well as remove the sick and damaged. After pruning, the crown should have the correct shape to maintain aesthetic beauty and simplify the harvesting process.

Autumn pruning involves the removal of old shoots. You need to cut those branches from which you collected the least harvest. In the future, these shoots will “produce” fewer and fewer berries, and the cost of food will remain the same.

Diseases and pests

Cherry "Lyubskaya" is affected by coccomycosis and moniliasis.

Coccomycosis is caused by the fungus Socotomy hiemalis. Red spots begin to appear on the leaves, after which the fungus causes them to fall off early. With abundant damage, spots may appear on the petioles, stalks, fruits and young shoots. Coccomycosis develops in warm rainy weather. This mainly occurs in summer and spring. As a preventive measure, we recommend monthly cleaning of leaves, dry grass, and weeds, since this factor may affect the development of the disease. Spores of the fungus are carried by the wind, so the fact that all plantations can suffer can not be excluded. Treating a tree with fungicides.

Sprayed cherries in the period of swelling of the kidneys. The soil near the tree trunk should be treated with the drug "Abiga-Peak". The following spraying is carried out at the time when the buds are tied. This will help you drug "Horus".

If the disease does not recede after flowering, we recommend cutting off the affected branches after 14-20 days and burn them. After harvesting should be sprayed cherries Bordeaux liquid.

The causative agent of moniliosis is the fungus monilia. He first appears in the pestle of the flower, after which it infects the shoots. Then the flower part, the leaves and the young shoots dry out. The disease develops at low temperatures. It's easy to notice the disease. Gray spots appear on the bark, which remotely resemble moss. Then the fruits are covered with the same touch. The shoots wither and the berries rot and fall.

To avoid defeat, you can spray cherry with the same drug "Chorus". Some experts advise treating the plant before flowering with the drug Mikosan-B or Skor. You can cure a fruit tree with Bordeaux liquid before and after flowering.

Of the pests cherry "Lyubskaya" affects aphid and gnawing parasites. You can get rid of them with an soap-and-soap solution. However, this will only help in the case of a small invasion. For mass lesions, the drugs Fufanon (against piercing-sucking parasites), Aktellik (against rodents) and Karbofos (against aphids) are used.

The advantages and disadvantages of the variety

From what we discussed earlier, we can say the advantages and disadvantages of the “Lubskaya” cherry.

Advantages:

• The variety is self-fertile. The advantage is that the cherry can be fertilized independently, without the participation of pollinating insects.
• The moment of the beginning of fruiting. If you follow all the above rules of agricultural technology, you will receive the first harvest in 2 years.
• High productivity. Up to 30 kg of cherries can be collected from each tree.
• The care does not require a lot of time and resources, as the tree is quite compact.

Disadvantages:

• Bad frost resistance. Cherry has an average frost resistance, so growing in the northern regions is possible only with sufficient insulation.
• The negative effect of temperature amplitude. Due to the peculiarities of the bark structure, cracks may appear on the tree trunk. This is due to temperature fluctuations. Cracks make cherries vulnerable to viral and fungal diseases.
• A short period of fruiting. With a stable high yield, the tree wears out quickly, so the cherry is grown for 16 years, after which it is advisable to replace it with a new seedling.
• High acidity of the fruit. Too acidic fruits are not suitable for people with high acidity, so products are most often used for processing and canning.

The grade perfectly is suitable both for big gardens, and for homestead territories. Knowing the detailed characteristics of the Lubskaya cherry, you can compare it with other varieties and make the right choice when buying a young tree. Recall that the cherry begins to bear fruit only in the 2nd year after planting, and this process can not be accelerated by the application of mineral fertilizers or chernozem.Follow all the rules of agricultural technology to get high-quality environmentally friendly harvest.