Secrets of the successful cultivation of Sakura in the middle lane

Although in the CIS countries this tree does not grow in natural conditions, but everyone knows about it, since it is impossible not to pay attention to the blossoming sakura. Pink petals of flowers conquer not only the inhabitants of Japan and China, but also many Europeans, with which the spread of sakura is connected. Today we will find out how to plant sakura, what is this tree, and also talk about caring for the plant.

What it looks like

Few know that Sakura is the “sister” of a cherry, namely - small-cherries. Speaking about how Sakura looks like, it’s worthwhile to submit not a copy of our cherry, but a tall tree with a spreading crown, which on average reaches 8 meters in height. It has oval-shaped leaves, with teeth on the edges, which are painted in green glossy color (in spring they have a bronze tint). The bark is smooth, covered with fine cracks.

It is interesting that there is a lot of resin in the sakura wood, therefore the shoots are very flexible.

When and how to bloom

If you have ever been fond of Japanese folklore, then you might have noticed that sakura blooms profusely during the winter holidays. The tree begins to bloom in January, but flowering does not occur evenly, but from South to North.

At the same time, it is difficult to say when the plant will start blooming in the middle lane, since it depends not only on weather conditions, but also on variation. There are species that bloom in late autumn, in winter, in early spring or closer to June.

Let's talk about bloom. Sakura blooms incredibly beautiful pink flowers. On each brush about 7-9 inflorescences are formed, which completely overlap the shoot. As a result, it looks like the tree turns into a huge ball. Speaking about how many sakura blooms, it is worth noting that each flower lives no more than 10 days, after which it fades and crumbles. Repeated budding does not occur, so 1.5 weeks is the maximum flowering period.

Breeders were found interesting species that emit huge buds with 45-50 petals. From the side it may seem that the tree was decorated with rosebuds.

How to choose seedlings when buying

When choosing a seedling, it is necessary to focus on winter hardy varieties. The whole problem with growing a tree is precisely that it cannot survive our frost. Therefore, it is necessary to give preference to the Sakhalin cherry variety, which is well acclimatized.

Next, inspect the upper part and the root system (if the roots are not in the earthy coma). There should be no wounds and dry branches. The root system must be developed, healthy, without blistering and rot.

It is necessary to get a sapling at the end of autumn when the tree already dropped foliage. The height of the same year should be 65-75 cm. However, planting is carried out only in spring (April), otherwise the fragile sapling will die during the winter, not taking on a new place in such a short time. Prior to this, the tree can be placed in the cellar or directly in the living room, planting it in a large pot or bucket.

Choosing a landing site

To grow sakura in the middle lane is necessary to choose the right place in the garden or on the plot. If you plant a beauty "as it will", then the tree can wither, even to the point of drying.

So, choose the south-western slope of a small hill and plant a young tree. In case you plant it on the south side, the tree will suffer greatly from temperature changes. But if the place is in a lowland, then get ready for the fact that the Sakura dries quickly.

It is also worth taking care that the sunlight does not overlap the buildings, otherwise the tree will begin to stretch and deform, as if it lacks mineral substances.

The soil. Be sure to check the pH of the soil, as the Sakura grows in the soil with a neutral reaction. Deviation should be negligible. Also, make sure that the substrate is well missed, and lay drainage before planting. Light loamy soil is preferred.

Step-by-step process of planting seedlings

Now consider in detail the landing of Sakura.

Starting with digging a hole. We will need a hole with a diameter of 45 cm. When digging a hole, separate the upper fertile layer from the lower one. We will not need the lower one, but we will use the upper one for the landing.

We mix in equal proportions the humus, compost and topsoil, which we got after digging the hole. If the mixture is not enough, then add the purchased land or take the soil of the nearest field.

We lay drainage using pebbles, expanded clay or crushed stone. Layer should be about 10 cm, not less. Next, fill 2/3 of our soil mixture so that there is a mound in the center of the pit.

Immerse the seedling clearly in the center, leveling it (we don’t need sakura growing sideways). We pour out the remnants of the mixture, then we tamp and pour. As soon as the ground settles a bit, we’ll finish it again We need to remove the air pocket around the roots so that the tree will stick faster.

After landing, we set up the support and tie up the sakura. Make a ditch around the perimeter, about 10 cm deep, and fill it with water.

This landing is complete.

Seasonal care features

After the planting stage, sufficient attention should be paid to the fragile tree to meet its needs in time. Let's talk about the formation of the crown and the need for feeding.

Watering

We water as the soil dries, but moisture is especially important during the swelling of the buds, as well as at the beginning of flowering and over the next two weeks. Should not be allowed soil dryingthat is extremely bad for the tree.

Feedings

Let's start with the fact that fertilizing must necessarily be, and they should be made during watering.

Close up in the near-stem circle should not only humus or compost, but also "mineral water". Mineral fertilizers require nitrogen and potassium, which can be applied both individually and in pairs, using complex fertilizer. If the soil is poor in organic matter, then once a year up to 10 kg of humus / compost and up to 15 g of mineral fertilizers should be applied (meaning the total weight of all elements).

If the substrate has average values, then 5 kg of organic matter and 8 g of "mineral water" will suffice.

Pruning

Formation of the crown and removal of dry, sick and frozen branches should be done only before the start of sap flow, in order to avoid the appearance of gum (resin).

In the first years, a sapling should be cut only in the case of dry or diseased shoots; the formation at an early stage is not performed.

Wintering

Sakura is not adapted to the "real" winter, so it must be prepared exactly with the instructions below. If you are sure that in winter there will be only minimal frosts, then you can at least warm the wood. For a good wintering at the end of the summer we introduce potash and phosphate fertilizers. In no case do not use complex options that contain nitrogen, as they will provoke further growth of green mass, and the tree will not have time to lose foliage before frost.

A week before the supposed first frosts, we wrap the trunk and grafting sites with thick covering material, and the lower part of the skeletal shoots with dense agrofibre.

At the same time you can not use the film or any material that does not allow oxygen.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

Even if you follow all the rules of tree care, it’s not a fact that it will not get sick or will not be occupied by pests, since it is very problematic to recreate ideal conditions for development in the middle lane and many factors do not depend on you. Therefore, further we will talk about how to deal with diseases and pests of sakura.

Let's start with the fungal disease coccomycosis. The disease is also referred to as reddish-brown spot and is quite dangerous for the tree.

Signs: spots, corresponding to the second name, appearing on the leaves at the beginning of summer, appearance of gray color on the back side of the leaf.

Consequences: growth inhibition and reduced immunity, as well as reduced frost resistance.

Causes: wet, warm windy weather, as well as a large number of rotting fallen leaves.

Fight: the use of specialized fungicides, which in several approaches will rid the tree of fungus.

Prevention: off-site cleaning of leaves or burning; digging in early spring; preventive treatment with drugs (if there is a chance of infection).

Aphid. The famous parasite that will not leave any plant in the garden alone. Aphids are carried by ants and can also move through the air.

A large colony not only violates the integrity of the bark, but also draws a lot of juice, which is especially dangerous for young trees. As a result, growth and development are inhibited, and the wounds on the cortex become an excellent entry point for pathogenic microorganisms. Also wintering becomes problematic. You can eliminate the appearance of aphids, smeared with medical Vaseline trunk, or glue double-sided tape. However, if the aphids move through the air, then only insecticide treatment will save you.

This concludes the discussion of an incredibly beautiful tree. After reading the article, you learned how and how long the sakura blooms, what kind of species it is, and how to grow it in the garden. At early times, try to devote more time to the tree in order to notice and fix the problem in time.