The cutting has the ability to bark quickly, and the seedlings that grow from them have the same properties and varietal characteristics as the mother bush.
For this reason, grafting is the most common method of planting grapes.
How to choose the right cutting?
- Harvest time
- Selection of vines for cuttings
- Preform
- Storage
- Extract
Harvest time
It is better to harvest cuttings in the autumn, during the mass pruning of bushes. Why is autumn? The fact is that in the winter time, a significant part of the eyes and vines die due to freezing. For this reason, the percentage of productive eyes when harvesting cuttings in the fall often exceeds the results of spring harvesting.
Consequently, it is necessary to have time to select the cuttings before the onset of the first frosts, while the time depends on the place of residence. Indeed, in some regions already at the end of September, the first drop in temperature to the indicator below zero occurs.
Selection of vines for cuttings
Reasoning logically, it becomes clear that cuttings (or chubuki) must be cut from bushes with high yields and, of course, healthy.If you have a huge vineyard, it is necessary to pre-plan the bush that interests you, so as not to confuse varieties.
Vine, with which we will cut the cuttings, should not be damaged by diseases and frosts. We are interested in a well-matured vine. Do you know that they can be identified not only by their characteristic dark straw color?
Having clasped the undisturbed part of the shoot, with a characteristic green color, and after that, having touched, matured, you will feel the difference in tactile sensations. The first will seem cold compared to the second.
Preform
So, we have already noted that we need a well-matured vine, or rather, a part of it. As a rule, the middle and lower parts are suitable. TopsWhere untreated shoots are located, are not suitable for our purpose. In addition to external examination, the degree of aging of the vine can tell us and the reaction of shoots to iodine.
Also an important indicator is shoot thickness. Best of all, if the diameter will be 7-10 mm, but so that the top was not less than 6 mm. Exceptions are grape varieties with fine vine. Ideally, the cutting should have five internodes, if more, then this is even better.
After overwintering, it will be possible to cut the most healthy part. But some growers consider suitable and a stalk with three to four buds. Cutting the cutting is made by shears. We make one cut under the knot, and the second (upper) - in the middle of the internode.
Cutting length must be up to seventy centimeters, this stock will allow you to update slices that will dry out during the storage period. The cuttings are freed from the leaves, antennae and stepsons, and are tied together with wire in bundles. Be sure to attach a tag containing all the necessary information: the number of cuttings, time of harvest, grade.
Storage
Keep cuttings need in a cool place. More often for this they use basements, cellars, and also drop them in trenches (not less than 25 cm). Of great importance are the temperature and humidity in the room. Indicators should be from 0 to +4 ºС, and not more than 60%.
Storage preparation includes disinfection cuttings in 3% copper sulfate solution.This should prevent mold in the future. After this procedure, they are taken out and left for some time in the air for drying, and then placed in storage.
Many viticulturists believe that before storing the cuttings, it is necessary to saturate with the maximum amount of moisture to avoid drying. Therefore, prior to treatment in a disinfectant solution, pre-soak the cuttings in water for a day.
If you plant the cuttings not for sale, but for yourself, then you do not need a lot of space to store them. For this purpose, a wooden box is also suitable, on the bottom of which 10 cm thick sand is poured, evenly, cuttings, then a layer of sand again, etc. During storage, we continue to observe and monitor the temperature and humidity of the air in the room. Airing and moistening sand, if necessary.
Recommended also shift cuttings at least once during the entire winter period. This is done according to the following principle: those cuttings that were from below - got to the top and, on the contrary, the upper ones took their place from below.
Generally inspection of cuttings need to be carried out once a month and discard rotten and can not be restored.If the mold process has just begun, then they must be washed and disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate, then dried and re-stored.
At trench storage a ditch is dug about fifty centimeters deep, the film is lined on the bottom in such a way that free edges remain. Then they have cuttings, cover them with the remaining film and put a shield on top of the ditch, which is covered with soil for 25 cm. With this method of storage, the cuttings are not shifted.
For storage of a small amount cuttings people resort to different methods, while having their own secrets and tricks. Some use a regular bucket for this, some use plastic bottles, and some use ordinary flower pots. We have reviewed the most common storage methods.
When the winter period comes to an end, we can check the readiness of our cuttings for planting. For this purpose, cuttings are taken from different beams and placed in water. A swelling of the kidneys in a few days will indicate that the eyes are in a state of awakening, and soon it will be possible to start planting.
Extract
In the middle of March, cuttings are obtained from storage sites and undergo a thorough and routine inspection. You need to make sure that the shoots are alive. Update slices. They should be green. If you make a transverse incision of the kidney, then it should also look healthy, and not have a darkened and brown color.
So, we selected the most productive shoots. Now it is necessary slice them on the cuttings with two eyes. In this case, we try to make the lower section immediately below the kidney, and the upper one so that two centimeters remain above it. In order to avoid confusion of the base of the cutting with the top, we make the lower cut oblique. Now you need to make a small notch in the form of scratches in the gap from the middle to the bottom.
Next, is conducted soaking cuttings in ordinary water for a day, and then lower the cut in a jar with a special solution that promotes rooting, for the same period of time. After performing this procedure, we place the cuttings again in a jar of clean water, the level of which should reach three to four centimeters.
As the water evaporates, it must be replenished.It is advisable to put the bank in a sunny place. After about ten days, the upper kidney will begin to swell, and after twenty days the first roots will begin to appear. As soon as they grow back, the cutting can be considered ready for planting.
Capacity and substrate prepared in advance. They are taken in equal proportions: sand, land from the garden, humus and old sawdust. All this should have a loose texture and not be too wet. As the tank you can use bottles without top. In the bottom we make holes for the outflow of water and lay drainage.
Then we fall asleep 8 cm of the previously prepared mixture, lower the cutting and then fall asleep again with the ground so that the young shoot rises above the substrate. We water and we put on a solar window sill.
As a top dressing You can use wood ash and potassium, but in no case, nor nitrogen-containing fertilizers, which can provoke rapid growth of the shoot. If such a process is still observed, the escape can be pinched. As soon as we are sure that there will be no more frosts, we can start planting the cutting on a permanent place.
At first, we try to cover the young escape from direct sunlight with the help of protective structures. If everything is done correctly, with care and love, and will continue to undergo the same care, then in two or three years you will be able to please yourself with the first harvest.
And we wish you success in all your endeavors!
