Strawberry "Tristan": characteristics, cultivation agrotechnology

Strawberries are a favorite delicacy in our latitudes, especially when you consider that after winter these berries appear first.

But sometimes a summer resident, even quite experienced, it is difficult to understand the variety of well-known and very new varieties and varieties of a given crop, differing in their external description, taste and speed of fruit ripening, peculiarities of cultivation and reproduction, and many other indicators.

We bring to your attention a very unusual hybrid - "Tristan F1". Putting him in his dacha, you definitely will not stay in the loser!

Characteristic and distinctive features of a hybrid

It is not entirely clear why the new hybrid variety of strawberries was given the name of a legendary knight from a medieval romance, but there is no doubt that this plant surprisingly combines excellent productive qualities and a truly luxurious appearance. It is no exaggeration to say that it can be planted not only on the garden, but also on the flowerbed, where it will be pleasing to the eye with flowers of rich pink color that are unusual for a strawberry.

In addition, these large and bright flowers exude a delicate, delicate aroma, which, by the way, the fruits themselves are different.

By the way, thanks to its decorative properties, the hybrid is sometimes grown at home, in pots, however, in this case, to obtain the harvest, most likely, it is necessary to do a little “work with the bee”, since nothing is said about the producer’s ability to pollinate itself.

When the bush is small, it forms numerous shoots up to a meter in length, it is on them that flowers bloom and then fruit is tied, so Tristan looks especially elegant on vertical beds or, continuing the cultivation theme in an apartment or balcony, in hanging pots.

And yet external beauty is not the main thing that interests us in berries. But “Tristan” in this regard has something to boast. Strawberries of this variety have a very delicate, juicy, rich and sweet taste.

The pulp is thick, not watery.The berries are not very large, oblong, conical, regular shape and beautiful red color.

The bush itself, as was said, is small and compact (height is 20-30 cm, width is 30-40 cm), but productivity is very high, and this is another indisputable advantage of Tristan.

In addition, we are talking about remontant strawberries, that is, for the year it will please not just one or even twice a good harvest, but, under good conditions, it will bear fruit almost continuously throughout the summer and even longer.

This, by the way, contributes a lot to the frost resistance of the hybrid, in addition to everything, in a short time he has already managed to earn the glory of an unpretentious strawberry variety.

And now, perhaps, the most interesting. What usually comes to mind when it comes to breeding strawberries? That's right - the long side processes, the so-called "whiskers", on which small "kids" are formed.

Of course, this method is much faster and more convenient than seed reproduction, because, being associated with the mother plant, the young shoots take root easily and almost guaranteed to take root, very quickly gaining growth and at the same time retaining all the advantages of the original variety.

But in fact, everything is not so simple. Experienced farmers know that in order to grow a good generation of young strawberries from a mustache, you need to direct all the strength of the mother bush to the generation of offspring. The harvest in this case will have to be sacrificed, removing the entire color in advance. In this case, from one bush, ideally, only one mustache is left;

In this case, you have to choose: either berries or new bushes for the next year.

Moreover, if you choose a crop, then you need to “fight” with strawberry mustache throughout the season - to remove all the young growth in a timely manner so as not to weaken the mother plant. Good news: with Tristan strawberry there will be no such problems.

So, the hallmarks of a variety are:

• the ability to bear fruit almost without interruption throughout the summer, and sometimes - almost to frost;
• unpretentiousness;
• frost resistance;
• excellent taste of the fruit;
• high and stable productivity (several hundred berries from a bush);
• simple care, due to the absence of "whiskers";
• incredible visual appeal.

Growing seedlings

So, since the Tristan vegetative method does not multiply, the only way to get this berry is to grow it from seeds.

Some gardeners manage to plant strawberry seeds immediately in open ground, covering them with a transparent box to create mini-greenhouses, and even claim that this method allows to get stronger bushes, because the plant initially develops in natural conditions, when the daytime heat alternates with the night cold.

And yet the traditional way to grow strawberries without seed is through seedlings. Here you can also "cheat" and buy ready-made, but here are three reasons for you to grow a berry with your own hands, starting with seeds:

1. Buying a ready-made shrub, you always run the risk: under the guise of an expensive hybrid, you can sell ordinary varietal strawberries, moreover, you cannot be sure that the seedlings were not grown using various “accelerated” technologies, to the detriment of its quality;
2. It is always nice to know that the harvest on the table is the fruit of one's own efforts, patience and love, such products are always tastier and definitely healthier;
3. Finally, it’s just cheaper: for example, in the same online store, grown Tristan strawberry bush is almost five times more expensive than a whole bag of seeds consisting of five seeds (below we will tell you how to these seeds sprouted and eventually turned into full-fledged bushes).

With all the variety of advantages, hybrid seeds have one major drawback: their qualities are inherent only in them and are not preserved in any way in subsequent generations.

In other words, you take the fruit you like in all respects, extract seeds from it, plant them on a bed - and get the whole variety of parental varieties that are used as the basis for creating a hybrid, but not the hybrid itself!

Terms for sowing

The choice of dates for sowing is a creative task. On the one hand, strawberry seedlings, unlike, say, from tomatoes, do not threaten to “outgrow”. The repairing hybrid can make the crop happy in the first year after planting (towards the end of summer), and in this sense, the sooner the seed rises, the more chances to eat a sweet berry.

For this reason, it would be possible to start planting seeds in seedlings in February and even the end of January. However, there is one difficulty.

Unfortunately, there are not so many sunny days in winter, and the length of daylight hours is still too short.

Therefore, if you do not have the opportunity to provide artificial shoots to your shoots, it is better not to take risks and be guided by the manufacturer's recommendation: the seeds are planted in seedlings at the beginning of March (at the very least - at the end of February).

Capacity and soil

The seeds of Tristan are considered large (as already mentioned, they are sold in bags of only five pieces), but this is only in comparison with other strawberry varieties.

Such seeds do not need deep capacity; it will suffice to pick up a box with sides a few centimeters. For seedlings at the first stage, a transparent single box from those selling food in a supermarket is very good: it is convenient because it has the same transparent lid in size.

You can pour a drainage layer to the bottom of the tank to avoid water stagnation, but there is another way: if you have a pair of identical boxes, make several holes in the bottom of one of the water and then place it inside the other so that there is a small gap between the two bottoms .

Now the soil. Small seeds are always very demanding to the ground. First of all, it must be very loose, in any case not packed.

You can use the ready-mixed soil for seedlings of good quality, if this is not possible - mix the sod soil with sand and rotted compost in the ratio of 1: 2: 2.

Sowing seeds

After you have filled the soil into the prepared container and leveled it, it is necessary to moisten the soil very well. The fact is that before germination and even the first time after this, it is better not to water the seeds, so as not to damage the weak roots and not to "drown" the seeds in the ground.

Instead of ordinary water for irrigation, it is better to use a solution of a non-aggressive fungicide. Optimal for this purpose fit system biopreparation "Fitosporin". In this case, you simultaneously decontaminate the earth and prevent the infestation of seedlings from fungal diseases, in particular, with the black leg.

After watering, the ground should be wetted over the entire area to the very bottom, but in no case become heavy. It is for these purposes that drainage is needed: excess water will pass through the holes in the lower tank, and this will indicate that the soil is sufficiently wet.

Now you can start sowing. Since we have a few seeds and they are rather large, we can easily spread them evenly over the surface of our drawer using a toothpick, a moistened knife tip, or another similar object.

But there is a more original version. After watering, we cover the entire soil surface with an even layer of snow (if it is still winter outside, there should be no problems with snow, but if it is slush outside the window, use a refrigerator: snow often forms on the back of the refrigerator).

On a white surface it is very convenient to distribute the seeds evenly. The trick with the snow is especially effective when you need to sow the seeds, in size resembling dust. In this case, it could not be resorted to, but it has another advantage: by melting, the snow gently and naturally, without external efforts, will carefully lay the seeds on the surface of the ground and at the same time additionally nourish them with moisture. This effect can not be achieved by acting with your hands!

In such a non-trivial way, it is possible to achieve almost one hundred percent germination of the not cheap, let's say frankly, seeds of a high-class hybrid.

If you pour the seeds onto the surface of dry ground and pour water on them from above, they will simply fall into the depths, and only certain "lucky ones" will be able to break through to the surface!

Sprouting conditions

Immediately after sowing, the container is covered with a transparent lid or tightened with plastic wrap and placed in a warm (20-22 degrees above zero) and bright place. As already said The main condition for the germination of small seeds is good illumination.

Watering the seedlings before the emergence of shoots is not necessary, the cover or film will save the soil from drying out. However, it is necessary to periodically ventilate the container so that it does not accumulate excess condensate.

The first uncertain germs on the soil surface should appear by the end of the third week after sowing. It is recommended to remove the film at a week earlier.

Care of seedlings

Emerging shoots still need bright light, but after a while they will also need additional space. It is necessary to take care of this in advance in order to prevent a serious competitive struggle in which the strongest will survive: our task is to save each seedling!

A pick is recommended to be carried out afteras a young strawberry will form a pair of true leaves, but in fact you can do it even earlier, as soon as the seedlings have seedbed leaves.

So, about a month after sowing carefully, using two toothpicks, we remove the sprouted strawberries from the ground together with a tiny earthy clod and put them in a prepared pot (you can use seedling cassettes, but only large ones with a diameter of at least 9 cm), filled with same light soil as in the initial sowing.

Using the same toothpick, we reinforce an earthen ball in a pot, spuding it from all sides. If you dive a more adult seedling, you must first make a hole in the pot in order to place an earthen ball with a sprout in it.

In any case, the less concern you get to the roots, the easier the seedlings will bear stress.

A timed picking and a large amount of light are two conditions under which the seedlings will not stretch and get sick.

In addition, approximately after the appearance of the third true leaflet, the seedlings need to start feeding.Well, the berry responds to humic fertilizers, but you can use others.

At this stage, it is useful to once again carry out preventive treatment with "Fitosporin" in order to prevent the fungus from being affected. Thus, proper care of the seedlings is in itself the prevention of this harmful disease, but Fitosporin is a non-toxic drug, so it is better to be safe.

The last stage of the "work" with the seedlings before planting is hardening. To make young bushes easier to undergo a drastic change in external conditions, about a couple of weeks before the intended "move", first for a few hours, and then for a longer time we take the pots of seedlings to fresh air (for example, to an open balcony).

At the last stage, the plants should easily endure the night spent under the open sky.

Planting seedlings in open ground

There comes the next, no less responsible, stage of growing a high-yielding hybrid. On how correctly the time will be determined for the transplantation, the place is well chosen and prepared, and the layout of the bushes is maintained, the entire final result depends. Here, as they say, there are no trifles, especially when you consider that, unlike most vegetable crops, strawberries are a perennial plant, and in one place it will have to spend more than one season.

Timing

Strawberries are quite frost-resistant, therefore it is not necessary to wait for the final establishment of heat for its planting in open ground, as is required by annual vegetables.

There are several ways to determine the correct time to start relocation:

• after the formation of five full leaflets;
• 6-7 weeks after emergence;
• a month after the picks;
• from April 15 to May 5.

In fact, all this is quite arbitrary, because in different climatic zones the vegetation of plants takes place in different ways, and even year to year, as they say, is not necessary.

Guided need to own feelings: on the one hand,seedlings should be formed quite well (the notorious five leaves), on the other hand, if the temperature drops below zero at night, the transfer should be delayed, but on the third hand, the earlier the seedlings will be in the ground, the more chances to get a harvest this year, and, as we said, the Tristan variety promises us this opportunity.

Accordingly, the plant must have sufficient reserve for full growth. So, choose the optimal time, trying to combine the three above criteria.

Location selection

For the cultivation of strawberries are equally well suited as flat areas, and gentle south-western slopes. The south side is less preferable, since the snow in such areas melts before the frosts end, and, without additional protection, the plant can freeze.

Not suitable for strawberries and nisin, where the air is usually cooler: as the berry begins to ripen early enough, without the necessary heat it will lag behind and hurt. Light plants also need a lot.

Be sure to note that the roots of strawberries are shallow, in the surface layers of the soil.

Two conclusions follow from this. First, the bed must be kept in a place protected from the wind, so that in winter the snow cover will not deflate from the ground, otherwise the roots will simply freeze.

Secondly, deep groundwater is inaccessible to the root system, and, therefore, in this case, irrigation will need to be given special attention. By the way, strawberry loves water very much, but does not tolerate its stagnation, so we exclude a wetland right away.

As for the soil, black soil is best suited for our hybrid. Alternatively, loam or sandstone, as well as forest dark gray soil can be used. Sod-podzolic soil for strawberries are not suitable.

For a good harvest, before planting the seedlings, the prepared area should be leveled carefully, if necessary, feed the soil with compost or simply fill up the loose fertile soil, then treat the soil with a fungicide.

Two weeks before disembarking, it is recommended to conduct disinfection with a mixture of lime and copper sulphate (0.5 kg and 0.05 kg, respectively, in a bucket of water, the solution should be used hot).

Scheme

Like any other wild strawberries, "Tristan" can be planted closely enough, but do not forget that each bush can grow in breadth up to 40 cm, at that distance from each other and try to arrange the seedlings.

If, in addition to Tristan, you plan to plant other varieties of strawberries, our hybrid is especially good with the Dutch strawberry Laurent F1, which is also a remontant berry.

Lovingly grown and properly planted in the ground Tristan seedlings will be pleased with the harvest at the end of summer, approximately four and a half months after disembarkation, therefore the first flowers (they will appear in three - three and a half months), as gardeners often recommend, they should not be cut off.

Features of care and cultivation agrotechnics

"Tristan" does not apply to whimsical varieties, but care for him must be regular and competent.

The first condition is watering. Here, I must say, everything is not easy: the plant does not tolerate any drying or over-wetting. The best way to get out of the situation is to throw a drip irrigation tape between the rows. Such systems today are inexpensive, easy to assemble with your own hands and allow you to provide crops with the necessary amount of water, greatly saving its consumption.

In addition, drip irrigation eliminates the need for loosening the soil, necessary after using a conventional hose to avoid subsequent drying and cracking.

Finally, the water in this case is delivered directly to the soil, avoiding contact with the leaves, which is completely unacceptable, especially on a sunny day. In short, the costs are minimal, and the benefits - the mass.

Weeding for strawberries - the procedure is mandatory, but dangerous. On the one hand, the plant does not tolerate shading at all, on the other hand, it is very easy to damage the roots close to the surface of the earth by pulling out the close-growing grass.

To make it easier for you to work and not to bother the plant, you only need to remove weeds on wet soil and do it regularly, without waiting for the moment when the parasites "bite" into the earth with all the power of their powerful roots. For a good harvest, "Tristan" should be regularly fed mineral supplements containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The manufacturer recommends carrying out such procedures literally every week.

Well suited for remontant hybrid such a recipe: A teaspoon of copper sulfate is added to a bucket of water, as well as potassium permanganate and iodine - a few drops. Water under the root.

We think you will agree that Tristan has a sufficient number of indisputable advantages and is worthy of taking its place on your site. If not, take another look at the photo of this decorative hybrid, and the last doubts will definitely disappear!