Tomato "Openwork F1": high-yielding and heat-resistant variety

Summer residents and gardeners, growing tomatoes for themselves, choose the best varieties, and one of them is deservedly considered "Openwork". In this article we describe in detail all the features of this wonderful variety and tell you how to care for it.

Appearance and description of the variety

The fruits ripen relatively early - the first harvest is already collected at the 15-16th week after the first shoots appear. They can be grown in open ground and under a film cover.

They are suitable for growing in the country and in the garden, as well as for large-scale vegetable production and are deterministic type - when the stem stops growing after tying a few brushes (usually 4-5) and the bush gives the crop early, once per season.

The height of the bush can reach 80 cm, the leaves are large, the design of the inflorescences is simple, the stem is articulated. The number of nests - from 4 to 6. Seasonal yield of tomatoes "Openwork" reaches 6 kg per 1 square. m With proper care and feeding from one plant can collect up to 8 kg of fruit.

Characteristics of hybrid fruits

The fruits are round-flat, smooth, with dense fleshy flesh, very juicy and sweet in taste. Coloring of unripe fruits is light green, and ripe ones are bright red. Each of them weighs from 220 to 260 g.

In cooking, these tomatoes are used to make salads, cold appetizers and hot dishes, as well as canned, made juice and pasta.

The advantages and disadvantages of the variety

The advantages of tomatoes "Openwork" are:

• high yield;
• heat resistance;
• small height of the bush;
• Immunity to many diseases (powdery mildew, root and apical rot, etc.);
• taste great pulp;
• diverse application in cooking.

Disadvantages:

• embarrassing care for bushiness;
• increased need for feeding;
• despite the heat resistance, requires regular watering.

Agrotechnology

In describing the advantages of tomatoes "Openwork F1" it is worth mentioning also the unpretentiousness of the variety to the methods of cultivation: in open ground and under film. Here are just a garter to carry out on time and monitor the formation of the bush, in a timely manner to remove excess ovaries, to grow large, juicy and non-cracked vegetables. Proper care is a guarantee that you grow beautiful vegetables in your garden or greenhouse.

Seed preparation and planting

Tomatoes variety "Openwork F1" sown 2 months before planting seedlings.Here you need to focus on possible May frosts and on the method of cultivation.

Seeds of hybrids are not disinfected, like seeds of pure varieties, they are not hardened with cold and sown dry. If you plan to grow in a greenhouse, they are sown a couple of weeks earlier. Sowing is carried out in boxes up to 10 cm high, filled with special purchased soil mixture.

If desired, you can make this mixture yourself. Here is one of the simplest recipes: a bucket of a mixture of equal parts of turf, manure and peat - a tablespoon of ash, a teaspoon of phosphate fertilizer and a teaspoon of potash fertilizer. The mixture is prepared a week before use and moistened.

On the right day, it is poured into a box and trampled, then watered with a warm solution of sodium humate, furrowed at an interval of 5 cm to a depth of 1 cm, thrown seeds into the furrows 2 cm from each other and sprinkled. The box is stored in a warm (not above 24 ° C), lighted place.

Storing and planting seedlings

Storage conditions for sprouts:

• good light;
• high humidity (daily spraying);
• heat (in the daytime not less than +18 ° C, at night - not less than + 12 ° C).

Growing seedlings is as follows. First you need to prepare and disinfect the soil mixture, if it is taken from the street.

To this end, the earth must be calcined in an oven (a quarter of an hour, at 180 ° C) or heated in a microwave oven (a minute, at a power of 800), or scalded with boiling water. You can also use a solution of potassium permanganate. Then the soil should be heated for a week at room temperature - for reproduction in it microflora.

Before sowing, you need to fill the container (peat pots, plastic cups, etc.) with disinfected wet soil. After that, the grooves should be made in it with an interval of 3 cm and a depth of 1 cm, put seeds in them every 2 cm and, finally, fall asleep.

From the moment of emergence of seedlings (one week after sowing) they should be stored indoors, in a lit place for about 1.5-2 months. To create a high humidity container can be covered with a film or glass. The humidity of the soil mixture should be monitored daily and carefully sprayed if necessary.

When overwetting, the container needs to be opened for ventilation.However, it is recommended to air daily. After a couple of weeks, the cover can be removed completely. In the case of mold, you need to carefully remove the infected layer of earth and treat it with a solution of fungicide or at least potassium permanganate.

In warm, windless weather, it is necessary to take the “youngsters” to the open space, gradually accustoming them to the sun's rays: first for 5 minutes, then for 10 minutes, and so on, daily increasing the duration of “sunbathing”.

The seedling of any tomato, including the variety "Azhur", from the moment of the appearance of the first shoots, needs regular (every 2 weeks) organic dressings.

If the seeds were sown from the very beginning in one large container (the recommended volume is 0.5-1 l), then on the tenth day after the sprouting, a picking is carried out - sprouting out of the total capacity along individual small ones. A couple of days before that, it is advisable to water it so that the soil dries out slightly and is not heavy when picking.

Picks should be done carefully along with an earthy lump, in a 200 ml tank - peat pots, plastic cups, etc. After 6-7 weeks flower brushes appear on the sprouts - this means that after a couple of weeks you need to plant in the garden or greenhouse. And you can not hesitate here!

Characteristics of a good seedling of tomatoes "Openwork": a powerful stem, large dense leaves, developed root.

When planting sprouts in the ground need observe the following scheme: the distance between the seedlings is 40 cm, the planting depth is 2 cm. This should be done in case of cloudy, windless weather.

Growing tomatoes on the beds in the open air is somewhat different from the greenhouse method, so we consider both options separately.

Care of a grade in an open ground

In this case, cultivation is reduced to watering, aeration, feeding, if necessary, tying the stems to supports, hilling (2-3 times per season), as well as to fight weeds, pests and diseases. Aeration is the loosening of the soil between the rows for air access to the root system. In addition, loosening, like hilling, helps fight weeds. After all, the zealous owner does not fight weeds with the help of herbicides.

In the fight against fungal diseases, infected fruits are removed, plant residues are destroyed, and areas are isolated from other solanaceous crops.

How to water the plant

As already mentioned in the description, "Openwork" is very unpretentious, but, despite this, all the same requires regular wateringso that the earth does not dry up until the vegetables are fully ripe.

Watering need tomatoes in the evenings. Underground drip is considered the best irrigation method - it provides the highest yield. If such a method cannot be organized, then water should be watered with ashes (2 pinches per 10 l) under the roots or between the rows. Subject to the listed conditions, the fruit will never fall ill with vertex rot.

The need for feeding and tying up tomatoes

Fertilizers need to be at least three times per season, but it is best to feed them regularly every 2 weeks. Any fertilizer will do, as long as there is more phosphorus and potassium in them than nitrogen.

Here is a simple fertilizer recipe: 10 g of water 15 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium chloride. In addition, plants constantly need magnesium, and during flowering period - boron (evening spraying of greens with a weak solution of boric acid).

The garter of bushes protects stalks from breakage under own weight. At the same time, the garter should not injure the stems.

It is necessary to tie the stems to the pegs immediately after their landing in the ground. Then they will take root and grow rapidly. Seedlings also need to tie up when they grow 5-6 leaves. The pegs are hammered to a depth of 40 cm, on the north side of the stem, at a distance of 10 cm. The height of the support is 1 m.

Caring for a hybrid tomato in a greenhouse

This method of growing, in addition to the already described irrigation, aeration, feeding, tying, hilling and maintaining plant health, also implies the ventilation of the greenhouse.

Soil preparation

Before sowing or planting seedlings land should be treated accordingly.

For the "Openwork" variety, light, non-floating soils are required, with good aeration, containing more than 2% of humus, with an acid index (pH) from 6 to 7. Then the yield of tomatoes will be maximum.

Soil preparation is digging in the fall on a spade bayonet and loosening in early spring, and another cultivation before sowing or planting. The earth should be heated to +15 ° C and above. To ensure this condition, it is necessary in advance to cover the beds with black film.

Organic fertilizers are applied under the previous crop at the rate of 3-4 kg / sq.m of fresh manure, it optimizes the use of nutrients. Mineral fertilizers must be applied on the basis of a general agrochemical analysis of the soil.

Feed phosphate and potash fertilizers carried out for plowing in the fall at the rate of 10 g / ha and 20 g / ha, respectively. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring 3-4 times and throughout the entire growth of the plant at the rate of 10 g / ha. In addition, with a lack of calcium, plants should be fed with mineral fertilizers with a high content of this element.

Planting and care

Landing rules:

• The landing is not too deep.
• Nitrogen fertilizers should not be too much, otherwise the tops will grow more intensively than berries.
• It is necessary to plant a sprout without yellowing and without cotyledon leaves.
• Landing is done in the absence of the sun, in a moist soil.

The scheme of planting tomatoes "Openwork" is as follows: the width of the beds is from 60 to 80 cm, with passages of 50 cm, the distance between the rows of bushes is 50 cm, and between adjacent stems - 30 cm.

Before the appearance of inflorescences, the plants are watered twice a week at the rate of water of 5 l / 1 sq.m, and in the flowering period - 10 l / 1 square. m. The best method of irrigation is an underground drip, and if this is not possible, then manual: under the roots or between the rows.

Watering time is earlier morning or late evening, so that excessive condensation does not form and does not drip onto tomato bushes. To maintain a stable microclimate, the greenhouse needs to be aired 2 hours after watering.

Garters can be used as pegs, and linear / frame grilles.

The butchers, growing from the leaf axils, lead to undesirable branching of the bush. Because then shading is formed, the probability of infection increases, and maturation slows down. Therefore, the stepchildren on tomatoes must be removed - in the morning, in order for the wound to quickly dry.

At the beginning of the second decade after the disembarkation of seedlings need to do first feeding a mixture of a solution of nitrophoska (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and a liquid mullein (0.5 l). Second feeding produced at the beginning of the third decade. During the season you need to make at least three feedings.

Pests and diseases

Although "Openwork" is resistant to standard diseases, it is necessary to know about them, as well as about methods of dealing with them.After all, the likelihood that parasites and infections can harm your tomatoes and reduce their productivity, there is.

One of the frequent uninvited guests in the beds are fungi. Spores of fungi spread through the air (wind, moisture, insects, garden tools) and, getting into wounds or natural openings of plants, infect them. Bushiness also promotes the reproduction of fungi.

Of fungal diseases worth noting gray rot - she loves greenhouse conditions, especially "sour" soil. Disease prevention: regular airing of the greenhouse, pH leveling by adding ash and bone meal to the soil. Treatment: treatment of diseased leaves and berries with a mixture of lime (2 parts) and copper sulfate (1 part) or their complete removal.

Septoria - Another fungal disease. The fungus is parasitic on the stems and leaves (light spots with dark edging and dots). Treatment: spraying with copper oxychloride emulsion with repeating the procedure after 15 days.

To fungal diseases can be attributed and late blightwhen the fruits almost instantly turn black and rot. The disease progresses in the fall, during sudden changes in temperature.Prevention: treatment 3-4 times per season with Ridomil Gold. Treatment: burning affected bushes. Bacteria, unicellular organisms, also parasitize plants - in this case they talk about bacteriosis. Conditions for their development: high humidity, warm weather.

Viruses are even fewer bacteria. Carriers of viruses that affect tomatoes are cicadas, pincers and aphid - insects sucking juice. Symptoms of viral diseases often resemble fungal and bacterial lesions.

Bushes infected with a virus are incurable and dangerous to healthy "neighbors." Among viral infections, the most common - peak rotwhen brown spots appear on the leaves and on immature fruits. As a rule, the disease is rampant in rainy summer conditions. Preventive measures: ventilation, removal of lower foliage. Treatment: watering the soil with a solution of 4% potassium chloride.

Of the pests, the most malicious enemies of tomatoes are scoops. Against them there is only one weapon - insecticides, which incidentally destroy less dangerous parasites - the aphid and the Colorado potato beetle.

Harvesting

The variety "Azhur" is a hybrid of medium early ripening: the first crop is harvested at the 15-16th week from the moment of emergence. Manual harvesting of these tomatoes is possible both separately and at a certain period of maturity of the entire crop at once. Many gardeners prefer the second option, fearing that the "cold dew" will destroy the berries.

However, healthy bushes of mid-ripening crops wither later than others, therefore, if frost is not predicted, green fruits are desirable to leave to ripenuntil it gets colder at night below +8 ° C. However, if the vegetables are to be stored for a long time or transported far away, then you can pick green greens too - not to be confused with adolescents who are still developing.

Returning to the topic of storage of unripe tomatoes, the so-called ripening, it should be noted that this process allows you to enjoy fresh vegetables extra 2 months. This period is largely dependent on the microclimate in the storage - by controlling it, you can ripen or accelerate or slow down.

For long ripening, tomatoes should be laid in one layer and matched at a temperature not exceeding +12 ° C (but not below +10 ° C) and at a humidity of 80%. At higher temperatures and humidity, vegetables begin to rot, and at lower climatic indicators, they become flabby. Tara should be inspected daily, removing from it the fruits that begin to blush, otherwise they will accelerate the undesirable maturation of the "neighbors". For fast ripening, the fruits are calibrated, stacked in two or three layers and stored in a ventilated room at a temperature of +20 ° C. To speed up the process of ripening up to one week, you need to put ripe fruits on the green ones. With a warmer microclimate, they ripen even faster, but are made soft and ugly.

The presence of light during ripening does not matter much (although in the light the berries become brighter), the main thing is to provide ventilation in the storage.

Adhering to all the rules, tips and recommendations, you grow a rich crop of tomatoes in your garden or in a greenhouse and enjoy delicious, fresh vegetables not only in summer, but also in autumn.