How to deal with the shield on indoor plants

Shchitovki (Diaspididae) - representatives of the family of semi-coleoptera-insect coccid with incomplete transformation. All coccides, of which about 3 thousand species (worms and felts, as well as more than 2,600 scale insects), herbivorous - eat plant sap and are dangerous pests. If you are not indifferent to "green friends", then it would be nice to know how the guards look and what measures to combat them to use - for complete clarity, we will provide you with a photo.

  • What it looks like
  • What harm
  • Signs of defeat
  • Prevention
  • How to get rid of scale
    • Chemicals
    • Folk remedies

What it looks like

Consider first female structure - by the way, the majority of "lovers" of indoor plants have an external similarity:

  • legs, wings, eyes, antennae - absent, but in the presence of well-developed mouth organs of piercing-sucking type;
  • for young ones, there is a soft shield and there is an opportunity to move, then the shield matures, and the females no longer move;
Did you know? Among all land animals, the coccid female, including the scarab, is the only group that “evolves” to a fixed lifestyle, which is accompanied by non-stop feeding.
  • body length 1.5-2 mm, oval or rounded shape, segmentation is not pronounced (eaters of garden crops are larger, with a pear-shaped or drop-shaped body up to 5 mm in length);
  • body color under the shield - white or pale brown;
  • the shield in mature individuals covers the surface of the body completely or partially, sometimes highly convex, hemispherical or flattened and consists of the secretory part and larval skins;
  • flap color - yellowish-brown and dark brown; during the maturation of the larvae, the color of their skin can change, the shield is also painted accordingly — non-uniform, for example, the golden-brown outer ring with the dark brown central ring.
Now the males:
  • there are no oral organs, but instead of the eyes and fully formed limbs and wings;
  • body segmented: head, chest and abdomen;
  • usually white and fluffy, but reddish, red-gray and light orange;
  • in the presence of a small shield.
Shchitovkas bear eggs of an oval or elongated-oval shape, as a rule, of white, light gray colors, turning into light brown with time. The size of eggs is scanty: from 0.1 to 0.3 millimeters. Under the microscope can be confused with worms. The larva happens two age:

  • the first age (such larvae are called vagrants) - the yellowish body is oval and flattened, up to 0.3 mm long, there are three pairs of legs, as well as antennae and eyes;
Did you know? Pay attention to the coloring of the larvae - in the case of many species of Diaspididae it can be understood in whom it will be reborn. For example, white broods of mulberry shchitovki grow into females, and red ones - into males.
  • second age - body size is larger, up to 0.5 millimeters, white or gray with, as a rule, a darker rear part of the body, usually there are neither legs, nor antennae, nor eyes. The only thing that distinguishes such larvae from mature individuals is the size and shield: it is lighter.
Do not forget about the species diversity of the scales: the females of some species are almost transparent, their shield is difficult to distinguish; with broken, blot shaped bodies; someone has a black flap and so on. The same applies to the morphological development: for example, in some tropical Diaspididae there is no egg stage.

What harm

Shchitovki - extremely harmful insects, which are enough for 3-4 years for the complete destruction of the fruit tree in the garden. They are so dangerous that in the agrarian regions of the southern countries, at the slightest sign of presence on the plants of shields (for example, mulberry), strict quarantine is announced, prohibiting the export of seedlings and seedlings.During quarantine, pesticides are used to process fruit trees and shrubs, as well as stone fruits and tea plantations.

Shchitovka settles on indoor plants, so you need to know where it comes from: be on the lookout with flowers from the store, with planting material (they can be infected), as well as with window-doors - wind can enter the house.

Houseplants also often suffer from aphids, mealybugs, false shields, spider mites, nematodes, thrips, whiteflies.

Signs of defeat

Sucking to the leaves, the females absorb the cell sap, as a result of which the leaves become covered with yellow spots, then turn yellow or turn brown completely, twist and fall from the plant. Subsequently, it ceases to grow, drying out, gradually exposing branches and dying. Citrus fruits are also susceptible to damage.

Important! If you find sticky discharges on the leaves, it is possible that this is the fall, the sweetish liquid of the scutes, with which they cover the stems, leaves, their petioles, buds and fruits.
The pad infects with a black fungus and accumulates dust.

Prevention

In order not to think how to get rid of the scythes on houseplants, protect yourself in advance and follow these rules:

  1. Buy vases in specialized stores; this will reduce the likelihood of acquiring an infected plant. Choose a variety resistant to diseases and pests, consult the seller.
  2. Freshly acquired “friends” are required to “quarantine”. If after 7 days nothing bad has been noticed - “acquaint” others.
  3. Wash plants with soap. It is enough to do it once a month, but it is possible more often (without fanaticism). The "rite" is most relevant in the case of moving a flowerpot from a balcony or street into a building.
  4. Remove dried or spoiled leaves and patches in a timely manner.
  5. Disinfect the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate - in addition, it is a good fertilizer and will strengthen the plant.
  6. An effective remedy for the young scale insect on indoor plants will be a solution of warm water with ground garlic and soap, which irrigate the seedling and the top layer of the earth.
  7. Finally, equip your pets with a comfortable dwelling: the absence of crowding will save from epidemics - the rest will be made up by selected light and temperature regimes, air humidity, rational watering and cleanliness of the habitat.

How to get rid of scale

At the first symptoms of infection of a sapling - whether it be traces of the scab or other strange spots - it should be separated from other plants, and then carefully check those that were nearby. Insecticides on adults will not work (they are covered with shields), but they can be removed manually.

Did you know? Individuals of Lepidosaphes ulmi - it’s also an apple-tree worm – canola, can be found in almost every corner of the world. The peculiarity of the species is that it exists in both parthenogenetic and bisexual forms.

In the case of tender leaves, use a cotton pad and a sponge, for those that are denser, a soft toothbrush will do: wet them in a soapy solution and wipe all leaves and stems on both sides. Disinfect the entire plant, as one accidentally surviving larva will lead to reinfection after a few weeks.

For the solution, any dishwashing detergent or soap will fit - economic, tar, green. Cover the leaves with thick foam for half an hour, then rinse with hot water (up to 50 degrees Celsius) for 2-3 minutes. Weekly procedures of this kind will get rid of shchitovki without the use of chemicals.

Chemicals

If the washing does not suit you or it cannot be spread to individual indoor plants, chemical preparations, insecticides, will help to get rid of insects. True, one-time processing will not be enough. The shield of the female prevents contact insecticides from affecting it - you have to either soak the plant completely in a bucket of chemicals, or use the drugs of choice - the systemic insecticides "Aktara" and "Confidor".

In this case, such contact drugs are effective:

  • hormonal insecticides and juvenoids - for example, pyriproxyfen "Admiral";
  • Neonicotinoids: Aktara, Apache, Iskra Zolotaya, Korado, Konfidor, Mospilan, Tanrek;
  • organophosphate compounds: "Aktellik", "Alatar", "Antiklesch", "Iskra", "Karbofos", "Kemifos", "Novaktion", "Fufanon", etc.
Important! Keep the air temperature in the room not lower than 18 degrees, otherwise the effect of chemical preparations will drop significantly.
In order to guarantee that all parasites are eliminated to a single, including those from larvae, contact and enteric contact insecticides will have to be applied at least three times, at intervals of a week.Do not forget to also wipe the window sill, window frames and glass, where the affected pot has lived, with liquid with alcohol or dishwashing solution.

Before you remove the shield from indoor plants with the use of insecticides of high class danger, make sure that you can:

  • properly ventilate the room;
  • release it from people with asthma and allergies, as well as pregnant women.
Each houseplant has its own nuances in pest care and control; therefore, it is important to know how to protect orchids, cacti, rubber plants, monsteras, clerodendrum, kalanchoe, hovey, streptocarpus, and swellies.

Folk remedies

The people's methods of fighting the shield are ambiguous: someone thinks that they are ineffective and, among other things, can harm the plant. Undoubtedly, systemic insecticides are more effective, but if you are not faced with the terminal stage of infection, it makes sense to start with folk remedies.

The basis for the solutions can be:

1. Kerosene:

  • stir in 1 liter of water 40 g of household (or 25 g of green) soap;
  • add 5 drops of kerosene and shake solution thoroughly.
The resulting mixture is rubbed or sprayed problem areas of the plant.

2. Onions:

  • take a medium-sized onion and chop finely;
  • rub the pieces and pour a glass of water for 2-3 hours.
The resulting solution every 7-8 days rinse the plant. If necessary, spray - fold the cheesecloth in three layers and strain the infusion.

3. Butter:

  • add 6-10 g of soap to a glass of water and whisk until foam appears;
  • mix with 15-20 ml of engine oil (you can use 2 tablespoons of olive or sunflower).
Important! Before the water treatment, the potted soil is covered with a film. It is undesirable to process plants with pubescent, tender leaves.
This plant is rinsed with the whole emulsion and allowed to stand for 6-10 hours, then washed off. It will take 2-3 procedures with an interval of 7-10 days.

4. Peppers:

  • Crush 50 g of fresh bitter pepper;
  • boil them in 500 ml of water;
  • let the mixture stand for a day and strain;
  • for processing plants in a liter of water, add 10 ml of infusion and 5 g of soap.
"Pepper" can be applied once every fortnight. In addition, it is stored for a long time, which is convenient if it is necessary to quickly treat the plant.

5. Alcohol and soap:

  • for the solution suitable household, tar and green potash soap (in extreme cases - any); also dishwashing detergent will do;
  • a glass of warm water will require a tablespoon of soap chips;
  • For more effective solution, you can add alcohol (a teaspoon of medical, liquid, technical, vodka will do), not forgetting to add 300 g of water.
In order not to burn the flower, it is necessary to wash off such a solution with warm water 10-15 minutes after application.

Important! Alcohol is contraindicated in delicate plants.
6. Tobacco:
  • per liter of water will need 80 grams of dry tobacco or tobacco;
  • let the mixture stand for a day;
  • strain and add to the solution a liter of water.
Use the resulting mixture for washing the flower, and for spraying.

7. Garlic: 1) first recipe:

  • chop five teeth of garlic into a glass of water;
  • leave the emulsion in a tightly closed container for a day or two.
The resulting solution every 7-8 days rinse the plant. If necessary, spray - fold the cheesecloth in three layers and strain the infusion;

2) second recipe:

  • fill five crushed teeth with 500 ml of boiling water;
  • let them stand for 4-5 hours.
After filtering the infusion can apply it for wiping.

A shield is a cunning enemy, the appearance of which is not so easy to detect. Fighting it requires regular inspection of plants and compliance with preventive measures.

Do not forget about self-defense: use chemical sprays in closed clothes and protective equipment, read labels on pesticides, after finishing chemical work, wash open skin with soap and water. Disinfect clothing whenever possible outside the home.