Fans of houseplants very often think about how to diversify their home greenhouse with bright and flowering elements.
Pachistahis is a perfect place for this - a pot with bright and beautiful flowers.
- Short description
- Types of pachistachis for indoor cultivation
- What you need to create conditions
- Soil and pot
- Lighting
- Temperature
- How to care
- Watering and spraying
- Top dressing
- Pruning
- Combating all sorts of difficulties
- Transplant rules
- Reproduction by cuttings
Short description
Pachistachis is a unique houseplant of the Acanthaceae family (Acanthaceae), which came to us from the tropics of America, as well as the subtropical forests of East India and the coast of Australia. Pachistachis is an evergreen shrub, reaching about a meter in height, with erect stems and oval leaves perpendicular to them. The latter have a large shape, dark green color and taper at the end.
When grown in a room environment, the pot is not picky in itself, it just requires adherence to some aspects of home care for pachistachis.
Types of pachistachis for indoor cultivation
The words "pachys" and "tachys" in Greek mean "thick" and "ear", respectively. That is why he was called so because of the flower in the form of a spikelet, resembling a candle.
Today, there are about 12 different species of this plant in nature, but the following types of cultivated pachistachis in our country are:
- Pachistachis yellow (Pachystachys lutea) is a semi-woody semi-grassy bush that reaches a height of 90-100 cm, with erect shoots. The leaves are large, sessile (attached directly to the stem), oval-shaped with tapering ends, have a dark green color. The inflorescences have the form of a long (15–20 cm), upright spike of bright yellow color, from which, from the bottom to the top, flowers of a two-lipped white form appear.
In other words, this type of pot is a room flower with yellow spikes that resemble the shape of candles.
- Pachistachis red (Pachystachys coccinea) is a shrub reaching a height of more than 1 m, with the same characteristics as Pachistachis yellow, except for the color of the inflorescences: the spikelets have a dark green color, and the blooming flowers are bright red.
This type of pachistachis is not very common in growing under room conditions, but because of its color it attracts the attention of leading flower growers.
What you need to create conditions
Many fans of indoor plants, first saw the photo pakhistakhisa, scared to start it because of the far-fetched difficulty in the care. In order for any flower to develop normally, there are certain unique rules for growing it in room environment.
Soil and pot
As the basis for the cultivation of pachistachis suitable universal mix, designed for decorative-flowering pot or self-made substrate with the following ratio of proportions:
- clay-turf land - 2;
- peat land - 1;
- humus - 1;
- leaf earth - 1;
- coarse river sand - 1.
Lighting
The optimum location for placing a pachistachis is a bright place in the western or eastern side of the room with bright diffused light, which excludes direct sunlight.
Temperature
Pakhistahis, who came to us from the tropics, likes moderately warm temperatures: in spring and summer, it can range from 18 ° C to 23 ° C, and in autumn and winter - from 16 ° C to 19 ° C.
How to care
Next, we consider the basic rules for breeding and caring for the pachistachis at home.
Watering and spraying
In spring and summer, pachistachis needs to be plentiful in irrigation with soft and settled water. When the soil dries, the pot will lower the leaves and begin to dry out.
In autumn and winter, pachistachis should be watered a couple of days after the topsoil dries out.
Top dressing
This exotic flower is fertilized twice a month with mineral complexes for flowering flowerpots. Also a good influence on the growth and development of plants have a liquid mullein or chicken manure. Top dressing is best to make a well-moistened soil (after abundant watering) away from the stems to avoid burns.
Pruning
Due to the fact that the pachistachis grows slowly, it is recommended to cut and pinch it. To do this, cut the stems with shoots up to 12 cm, and the tops on all the processes pinch.
Combating all sorts of difficulties
Below we consider the most common problems encountered in the cultivation of pachistachis, as well as the causes that contribute to this.
- Dropping leaves - insufficient watering, air temperature drops, drafts (it is necessary to check the soil moisture, stability of air temperature and ensure normal positioning of the pot with the plant, avoiding drafts and finding batteries nearby).
- Dry tips and leaf curling - dry air (it is necessary to install climate control of air).
- Exposure of the lower part of the shrub is normal after some time of its vital activity (a short pruning of the plant is made for rejuvenation and continued growth of the pachistachis).
- Reducing the number of leaves, shoots stretching - low light (it is necessary to provide bright diffused light, contributing to the normal development of the plant, as well as the location in the right side of the room).
The answer is simple: not all the norms are observed, because the cause of this problem is often insufficient lighting.
Transplant rules
The need for transplantation may arise for two reasons:
- the root system in the old capacity becomes cramped;
- the lower part of the plant drops the leaves, and pruning the plant does not contribute to further growth.
The pot is picked up a couple of centimeters more in width and height, providing the same breathability as during planting (drainage).
In order to prevent the soil from oxidizing, a part of the old earth is removed and the missing number of types of earthen substrate is added in the same proportions.
Reproduction by cuttings
We will understand how to propagate pachistachis at home using cuttings. This procedure is done with apical and middle non-lumber cuttings during spring pruning of the plant.
For the fastest rooting, the cuttings are covered with a glass jar or a transparent bag. But it requires daily removal of capacity and ventilation of the plant for 30-40 minutes. Within 14–20 days, the cuttings can be transplanted into small pots with a diameter of 12–15 cm, and only after some time in the absence of problems — a permanent place for an adult plant.