Even unpretentious perennials with the onset of cold weather require special care.
Many do not bother with such work, leaving everything to chance.
But experienced gardeners know how to prepare peonies for winter, and willingly share their knowledge with everyone.
- Termination of watering and feeding
- Trim Features
- Peony shelter
Termination of watering and feeding
After completion of the flowering period, the plant no longer needs moisture in the same volume as during active growing season. The summer norm of irrigation for pions is 10-25 liters of water under a bush with an interval of a week. With the beginning of autumn there is no need for such quantities of liquid, and moisture is gradually reduced.
You can apply this irrigation scheme: 25 liters, after a week or two, already 15-20, and so on until complete cessation.
For this purpose, potassium-phosphorus solutions are used. 15 g of phosphorus and potassium will be enough for 10 liters of water. The resulting mixture is poured so that it does not fall on the neck of the plant. The same elements can be applied in dry form (they are sold in the form of tablets). Before such introduction the bush is plentifully watered and evenly sprinkled the crushed tablets into the well.
Trim Features
This is the most important part of frost preparation. It is undesirable to leave it in early spring - then the secateurs can simply not “take” the stem that has softened over the winter. The main thing is to catch the right moment. Depending on the region, this may be both the last decade of October and mid-November. If we take "according to science", then the preparation of pions for winter determines the best time for pruning on the first days after frosts. It is important that the soil was dry.
By this time, the sprouts will already slag on the ground, and such manipulation will not harm the plant. Cut grassy peonies as low as possible without leaving a high hemp (2-3 cm is enough). All ground part is removed (flowers and stems with leaves). Then they are collected and burned.
Some use cut material for cover, but this is not worth it - it can be a good place for hibernation and reproduction of pests. Lying nearby leaves are also collected and disposed of. Some gardeners after such an event make a combined top-dressing from wood resin and bone meal (60/40%).
- Early removal of the shoot. If the autumn is warm, then the stems will grow again and will have time to grow just under the frost. A drop in temperature in such a situation weakens the plant.
- At the other extreme will be tightening with trimming. So the rhizome can simply rot.
- Leave a small part of the stem much higher than the ground level (3-5 cm).It is a mistake to think that it is hardening perennial. On the contrary, such a procedure inhibits the growth and flowering in subsequent years.
Peony shelter
To protect the rhizome from frost, apply mulching holes. The best materials for the "blankets" are humus and dry peat. The thickness of the layer depends on the weather conditions in a specific area: if 10–12 cm is enough for areas with a temperate climate, then 15-20 cm will be needed for the northern sections.
The benefits of such shelters are many - they not only retain heat, but also feed the soil with useful substances. For "age" plants, it is also an excellent growth stimulant.
Materials such as are not suitable for coating:
- leaves;
- manure;
- straw;
- coniferous "paws";
- sawdust and shavings.
With the onset of spring, such a "cover" is removed, but not completely: a thin layer of mulch is left in the hole, which will restrain the growth of weeds.