Zephyranthes, or, as they are called in the common people, "upstart" is a bulbous plant of the Amaryllis family with incredibly beautiful flowers, originally from the American tropics. Today it is very much loved to grow at home, as a houseplant. Caring for him, in general, is uncomplicated, but sometimes the flower begins to turn yellow, which greatly upsets the host. Let's try to figure out what reasons may cause such a problem.
- Lighting
- Watering
- Lack of moisture
- Waterlogging
- Air temperature
- Errors during transplantation
- Rest period
Lighting
In fact, yellowing leaves - a common problem in indoor plants. One way or another, the causes of this phenomenon are associated with improper care, because under natural conditions, certain representatives of the flora grow in different climatic zones, and, as they say, what is good for one person is death for another.
Therefore, the first rule of an experienced grower: before starting a particular flower, one should gather more information about it and, armed with knowledge, create optimal conditions for its maintenance.
In addition to the "native" western, eastern, in extreme cases - southern directions will also suit zephyranthes, but you should not put a pot with this flower by the window facing north. In the period preceding flowering, the upstart needs especially a lot of color, the same applies to the time of year when "Zephyr rules".
If during the active growth of natural lighting in the apartment is not enough, the flower needs to be added in an artificial way - good, there are a sufficient number of different fitolamps of any configurations and sizes available today.A good option would also be to put the plant in the garden or on the open balcony, especially since the upstart loves fresh air.
Watering
Another reason why zephyranthes turn yellow leaves is due to a violation of irrigation technology. Here, too, for each season has its own rules. In general, the flower needs moderate watering: so that the soil on the surface of the pot always remains wet.
However, after the end of flowering, watering should be reduced a little and give the upstart a chance to rest and gain strength for the next growth phase. After such a period of rest, watering should begin to increase gradually, so as not to create a stressful situation for the flower.
Lack of moisture
Zefirantes necessarily respond to a lack of moisture, and the yellowing leaves just may be a manifestation of such a reaction.
As for any inhabitant of the tropics, for this flower the humidity of not only the soil layer, but also air is important.You can fill the upstart with water, but if the room is not damp enough, its leaves will still turn yellow and dry.
Drying the soil as a result of insufficient watering also leads to the fact that the plant begins to turn yellow. In addition to the usual irrigation, in the period of active growth and preparation for flowering, zephyranthes need regular feeding. For this purpose, purchase fertilizer for flowering bulbs in a specialized shop.
Waterlogging
Often inexperienced growers, seeing the yellowing leaves of the upstart, increase the intensity of watering and thus only exacerbate the problem. Moistening a plant is as destructive as overdrying, especially if, watering the ground, forget about humidifying the air.
Air temperature
Zefirantes does not like too high temperatures. During the period of active growth and flowering, the maximum allowable temperature for the upstart is 25 degrees above zero, but the plant will feel much better at lower temperatures.
When Zefir is blowing, the flower of the western wind needs a temperature regime in the range of 8-14 degrees Celsius. Unfortunately, in the summer heat to provide such coolness is quite difficult, which is why the plant begins to turn yellow.
During the rest period, it is better to place a pot with a flower in a cold room, for example, on a closed loggia, however, if the air temperature drops below five degrees above zero, a tropical inhabitant may die from hypothermia.
Errors during transplantation
Transplanting for any plant is always stressful, however, indoor plants cannot do without this procedure.In particular, in relation to the upstart, it should be held every year, because after the flowering of marshmallow in the pot, there are numerous young bulbs that need additional space for development.
A violation of the transplant technology — too small or too large a capacity, improperly buried bulbs, a violation of their integrity, inadequate soil, etc. — all this can also cause the plant to start to ache, turn yellow and dry.
To avoid such problems with transplantation, follow these rules:
- The procedure should not be carried out during active growth, before or during flowering. Correctly do this after the plant has faded, so that it enters into the resting phase in a new container.
- Do not plant each bulb in a separate pot (unless you grow an upstart for sale) or take an oversized container. Often, beginners of indoor flower lovers make exactly this mistake so that the next transplant does not take place as long as possible. As a rule, all bulbous plants develop best of all in conditions of a little limited space (as they say, “in crampedness, but not offended”).
- Do not forget to provide the plant with good drainage, because, as we have said, stagnant water for the upstart is destructive.
- If you have not picked up a special soil for tropical plants, add the same amount of sand to ordinary soil so that it becomes lighter and more loose. It is also good to enrich the mixture with organic matter, ideally - with humus.
- Use for upstart wide pots with low sides.
- If you failed to separate the onions from each other without injuring you, it is necessary to conduct antiseptic processing of the slices. For this purpose, ordinary charcoal, ground into powder, is quite suitable.
- Do not dig in the bulbs too much: just barely cover them with earth.
- Since immediately after transplantation the plant is supposed to enter the rest phase, it is not necessary to water it actively. In addition, not caught onion bulbs are particularly susceptible to decay.
Rest period
Above, we have repeatedly mentioned the resting phase necessary in the life cycle of zephyranthes. If you do not give the plant such an opportunity, it will continue to grow and even bloom, but it will look frail and exhausted, and the flowers will become smaller and smaller.
So, if you see that the growth of the upstart has slowed down, and the leaves began to turn yellow and fall off, think about whether it is time for your pet to rest. Usually such a stage at the plant comes in the fall or at the very beginning of winter. At this time, the pot must be moved to a cooler place and limit watering to a minimum. If the plant has completely dropped the leaves, it can and does not water.
In particular, a similar effect can be caused by the action of such parasites as the scythe, the whitefly, as well as the spider mite and aparallis scarlet (the last two are easily identified, because before drying on the leaves, characteristic signs appear first in the spider web and sticky syrupy raid in the second).
In this case, the plant needs to be helped to cope with the invasion using standard procedures: manual removal of pests, soil disinfection, bathing, treatment with special preparations, etc.
Thus, the yellowing leaves of zephyranthes can be caused by a mass of reasons, all of them, except one (the entry of the plant into the resting phase), are associated with improper care for the flower. Analyze what you are doing wrong, make the appropriate adjustments to the conditions of the plant - and the upstart will stop hurting!