Euphorbia white-toed

Beginning flower growers, just starting to form their collections, begin to look closely at the “range” of their more experienced colleagues. Usually, the choice falls on easy-care plants that "forgive" newcomers some mistakes. One of these species is white-faced spurge, which is among the most common household flowers. Let's see how to grow such a handsome man on his windowsill.

Description

This flower has many names - in the people it is often called a banana, palm tree or cactus. It is not surprising, because the white-haired woman came to us from sunny Madagascar. If you take a closer look at the plant, it will finally become clear why euphorbia received all these "nicknames."

The stem with a very dense, fleshy base is mostly thin, but as it approaches the apex it begins to thicken, it has pronounced scaly ribs (which gives a similarity to the cactus). Occasionally, a weak branching is observed at the tip.

Glossy emerald green leaves are collected in the outlet on the very "top". The lower processes disappear with time, which, in combination with a fringed stem, enhances the "palm effect". Some note and the remaining white or yellowish marks.

Often this line is confused with earthen euphorbia. They are really a bit similar, but the “white-vein” immediately catches the eyes of the oval veins. Another distinctive feature is the small flowers of white color, which appear right in the leaf axils (whereas in the “ridges” they are located on short peduncles). The flowering period itself starts at the beginning of spring and can continue until mid-August.

Special decoration is not observed at the same time - they look rather modestly against the background of imported “exotics”, and there are not so many of them that bloom.

After flowering, fruiting begins - oblong box, cracking, "shoots" seeds. The distance of their "flight" is enough to reach the next pot with another plant. In height, such spurge grows to 1.2-1.5 m (two-meter specimens come across). The figures are decent, but there is one caveat that should be remembered before buying seeds or a whole flower: this species has weak roots, and often they have to be “deposited” in a deep pot, occasionally changing the container to a larger one.

Growing conditions

For successful germination of seeds need certain conditions. Euphorbia in this regard does not put forward any extra demands, but some points of keeping the “young” are still worth remembering. We list the main ones.

Temperature

Thermophilous white-clad people need constant access to heat.

The optimum temperature is +20 ... +23 ° C. For the upper "limit" taken +25 ° C, with prolonged exposure to excessively hot conditions, the seeds of the seeds "choke", and in adult plants the leaves begin to dry. +18 ° C will also be suitable for the winter months. An enduring flower survives without any particular consequences and short-term +15 ° C, but smaller numbers on a thermometer are already dangerous for it (and you shouldn’t use "hardening" too).

Air humidity

Representatives of this class are well tolerated "room" humidity and proximity to the batteries or heaters - in nature, euphorbia is also not spoiled by the abundance of fresh air. But putting the pot close to the heat source is still not worth it: this way you can overdry the soil.

In the spring, as warming, you can arrange airing. Capacity with a flower for a couple of hours put on the loggia or balcony. Such a simple procedure has a good effect on growth, “dispersing” juice throughout the stem.

Lighting

There are no "whims" and on the part of the light regime.

The requirements are extremely simple:

• it is necessary to provide an abundance of light (while minimizing the risk of exposure to sunlight, which leaves burns on the leaves);
• undesirable staying in the shadows.Penumbra, in turn, is not an obstacle;

• Ideal if the lighting will be adjusted "seasonally." So, in the summer the pot can be taken out to the garden, covered from the sun or simply by placing the plant under a tree. From October to March, they try to turn on the lamp for several hours - staying in peace, spurge in the spring will thank you for their lush growth and saturated color of leaves.

Experienced growers advise to turn the pot daily. This will provide a more symmetrical illumination of all flower areas.

The soil

With the preparation of the substrate will cope any. The unpretentious variety is perfectly accepted both on the soils prepared for succulents and on universal mixtures that are sold in stores.

Homemade mixes are usually made according to the following proportions:

• the easiest way is to “mix” the purchase soil with sand in a 2: 1 ratio;
• the softer soil is considered to be “collected” from pure river sand, leafy ground and peat, taken in equal shares.To the already obtained mass add a few chips of fine coal (only wood is suitable).

No less important is the packaging. For milkweed with its superficial rhizome, a rather wide pot or a pot is needed. Well, if it is also flat.

Note and drainage. The soil should breathe, and the moisture should not stagnate for too long. All this can be solved by taking a pot with a hole at the bottom. As they grow, large plants are “relocated” in containers with large flat stones laid out at the bottom, which play the role of a counterweight - without them, the fragile root may not keep the green mass.

Breeding

The most common method is reproduction from seeds.

The whole procedure looks like this:

• The seeds collected from the autumn are stored in a warm dark place with good ventilation.
• In early March, you can begin to prepare.Seed material is slightly rubbed, thus a little "grinding off" too thick shell (it can simply hold the fruit).
• The material is planted in loosened soil, going down by 4-5 mm. To do this, you can use any thin object that will push the seeds into the soil. Often they are simply laid out in a pot, evenly sprinkled with a layer of soil or sand of the same thickness.
• After that, the container is covered with a film for 12-14 days, transferred to a cool corner, not forgetting to humidify the sprayer (but not with a watering can, as needed).
• Then follows the "move" to the windowsill. On the 3rd week after planting, shoots that can be aired out will be repulsed.
• When they finally get stronger, a pick is done, and the whole array is spread to separate pots.

Despite the simplicity of this method, many go further in an effort to save time by practicing autumn cultivation of milkweed using self seeding.Having calculated the time when the boxes begin to crack, containers filled with the substrate are placed near the "main" pot.

The seeds which have got there give seedlings which in time are simply transplanted to other places.

Care of them is identical to the classical seeding method with the only difference that it is necessary to provide a more gentle mode of light and temperature.

Not bad results are obtained by grafting:

• By the beginning of summer lateral shoots are actively growing. They also should be cut off.
• Using a sharp knife or scissors, separate the strongest ones. The closer to the trunk, the better. It is desirable that the incision be one, the extra “passages” of the cutting edge are traumatic for the plant and the “stepson” itself.
• Such processes are placed in a jar with warm water. About a day from them will drain the milky juice.
• Then they are removed and treated "wounds" frayed activated carbon.
• After this procedure, the stalk is left in the same jar for several days (be sure to change the water). If they are a little underwhelmed, nothing terrible - this is a natural reaction.

• After this period, it should be transplanted into the substrate from sand and peat soil. All this is done at temperatures of + 20 ... +24 ° C.The first month of the plant try not to disturb.

Care

As you can see, belozhilchaty euphorbia is distinguished by enviable stability and unpretentiousness, which facilitates the care of a flower growing in normal home conditions. These manipulations are well known to everyone who has flowers on the windowsill, although there are some specific features.

Watering

In summer, euphorbia growing in a well-lit area is moistened by spraying 2 (less than 3) times a week. For such purposes, water is taken at room temperature (a warmer liquid is allowed).

Watering at this time should be frequent, but not abundant: like all southern succulents, spurge is extremely sensitive to overmoistening. It is necessary to “overdo it” a couple of times with the amount of water, and you already run the risk of starting the process of decay of an already weak root. On the other hand, it is also impossible to bring the soil in the pot for the condition of the cracked stone - regularly inspect the plant and container.

During the rest period, watering is minimized.With the onset of cold weather, the flower will suffice once a month.

Top dressing

The best fertilizer will be purchased mixture intended for cacti.

Seasonal "recharge" of adult plants is carried out, starting in March. The March “doses” are slightly lower than the main ones, but they are applied more often - 2, or even 3 times a month.

Starting from April, they switch to a one-time monthly payment, which is repeated until September inclusive. In winter, 1 treatment with a solution of low concentration will suffice.

Pruning

For a caring owner, a flower grows very quickly, and already for the 2-3rd year after sowing, its rates begin to cause concern - whether the root can withstand powerful greens.

In such cases, resorting to the simplest cutting of the tops with a sharp knife (ordinary scissors may not cope). It is best to do a single cut with further disinfection of this place with powdered charcoal.

The tops themselves can later be put into action, rooting in a new container. But before that, it will take at least half a day to stand in warm water, letting the juices go.

Do not forget about the annual pruning.After the euphorbia has faded and hibernated, the shoots are necessarily shortened by 13-15 cm.

Transfer

Such "transfers" are very simple, although somewhat traumatic for such plants. Therefore, “young animals” are allowed to replant no more than 1 time per year, whereas for older plants a 3-year interval is recommended.

The technology is well known to all flower growers - preparing the soil, laying in a new container, followed by powder and gentle care in the first couple of months. At this time, it is better not to touch euphoria unnecessarily: it only gets used to the new environment, and even transfer to another place can be fatal.

As for the soil for transplanting, here it is better to prepare a "mix" of sod, sand and peat in equal parts. Not bad coping and purchase of billet for succulents, covered in a wide pot.

Diseases and pests

Unfortunately, it does not do without them. Mistakes in the care immediately affect the condition of the flower.

For example, cold weather or too abundant watering is fraught with the risk of disease,superiority among which remains for various types of rot. Most often bake such ailments:

• Gray rot, which begins with the appearance on the stems of a gray-olive raid. Diseased processes are removed immediately, sprinkled with cuts wood ash or chalk. If this "surgery" did not help, 0.2% of "Fundazol" is used. As an option - soap-copper solution (2% of household soap mixed with 0.2% of copper sulphate).
• Late blight affecting the roots and slow growth. Treatment of dead roots does not give results, but the survivors can be saved with fungicides of the “Ordan” type (5 g / 10 l of water); "Oxyhoma" (10 g for the same amount) and strong "Vitaros" (only 2 ml / 10 l).
• Spotting as a result of waterlogging. After cleaning the affected parts, the entire ground part of the euphorbia is sprayed with solutions: "Vectra" (3 ml / 10 l), copper sulfate (100 g is already taken in the same bucket). "Alirin-B" in the form of tablets helps as well - 2 pieces is enough for 1 l of water.

To prevent their occurrence, carry out preventive treatments, watch for watering doses and, if necessary, transplant the plants. Too heapy location is also undesirable - this risk factor often leads to pest attacks.Euphorbia belozhilkovogo varieties have good immunity, but still there are insects that rush to it especially zealously, thus complicating the care at home. Among them stand out:

• Spider mites, reminiscent of yellow spots on fading leaves. Barely noticing such an attack, wash the plant under a warm shower. Compulsory processing "Fitoverm" or "Vertimekom". Repeated treatments are carried out after 10 days (only 3 approaches).
• Mealybug, suggestive white bloom. After the primary alcohol rubbing, the top layer of the soil changes, and the whole green mass is sprayed with “Aktar” or similar in composition “Agravertin”, “Intavir” or “Karate”. The result will give 4-fold treatment with intervals of 7-10 days.

• Shchitovka that does not tolerate the same drugs. It is usually removed by Aktara at a dose of 4 g / 5 l of solution.At the same time, the soil is spilled with a weaker composition - only 1 g / 10 l of water. Intervals and frequencies are identical to the "worm".

We learned how to grow white-clad milkweed at home. We hope these tips will help beginners, and the flower will be the beginning of an impressive collection of plants. Successes and vivid impressions every day!