Tomatoes "Pink Elephant": characteristics, planting and care

The view of the beds with large tomatoes planted on them fascinates many. Seeing such a "plantation", gardeners often ignite the idea to take a big crop in a small area. But getting large fruits requires a fair amount of work, so even before buying seeds it is advisable to calculate your strengths and capabilities.

Consider what are interesting large-line tomatoes. "Pink Elephant", and what their cultivation looks like in practice.

Description and distinctive features of the variety

This is a mid-season variety, which is distinguished by large sizes of the bush and fruits. The plant grows up to 1.3-1.5 m in height. The leaves are medium, dark green in color, a bit like a potato. The green mass is growing at a moderate pace, but you can’t do without staging.

After 110-115 days after the seeds have "fallen out", the first fruits appear in the bush, collected in small (3-4 pieces) brushes. Weight ranges from 0.3-1 kg. The largest sprout on the lower branches. They stand out in a solid dark pink color without any blotches or stains. In appearance, these vegetables are round, but slightly flattened, and in the area of ​​the stem, characteristic ribs are clearly visible. If you cut a tomato, then you will find that the seeds inside are quite small, and on the breaks of the lobules there are particles of sugar.

Tastes are also at the height: juicy, fleshy pulp on the sample turns out to be sweet, without the "sourness" inherent in many varieties. As for the skin, it is dense, but in moderation - without excessive rigidity.

Advantages and disadvantages

A plant with such a description is of great interest among the owners of cottages and gardens. But even before buying seeds, it is worth paying attention to both the strengths of the variety and its weaknesses. Without mentioning them, the characteristic would be incomplete, so we will try to find out exactly what the Pink Elephant line tomatoes are good at.and what they are inferior to other tomatoes.

pros

Among the many arguments for the most often cited:

• large fruits;
• enviable taste;
• thick sweet flesh;
• high yield (3-4 kg from a bush);
• long shelf life and high transportability (due to the dense skin);
• good immunity to, including fungal;
• resistance to pest attacks. They rarely threaten such "giants."

There are indeed a lot of advantages, but the “elephant” has its drawbacks.

Minuses

People with experience know that large varieties require constant care. This is expressed in the need:

• regular and careful formation of a bush (pasynkovanie, shtambovanie and garters);
• timely watering and fertilizing. To give, which is visited once a week, such tomatoes are clearly not suitable;
• provide temperature conditions. Large tomatoes with their dimensions remain quite delicate plants.

If such difficulties do not scare away and the decision to take over the landing remains unchanged, you can stock up on seeds.

Growing seedlings

The algorithm for working with seed material is the most common, such a “classic” is practiced every year by millions of gardeners. Some special skills are not required here, except that accuracy, coupled with knowledge of the characteristics of growing the variety.

Planting dates

Seeds are better to start up in the middle or at the end of March. An earlier sowing may not be effective - the “February” pots (especially in the northern regions) may end up empty. A significant role is played by external factors, especially climate. If the house is warm and the weather is already sunny, you can get ready for work. But barely warm batteries, along with "eternal winter" outside the window, will not be the best "start", and then to stimulate growth you will have to turn on the lamp for a long time.

Capacity and soil

As a container, large pots with drainage holes or wide containers with transparent lids will fit. The presence of a pallet is required.

Good ground is half the battle. It is sold in stores, but you can prepare the substrate with your own hands:

• garden soil is mixed with humus in equal proportions. It is humus that is taken, fresh manure will simply burn delicate seeds;
• for the best effect fill a layer of river sand or wood ash (2-3 cm will be enough). Be sure to mix them with the soil until a homogeneous mass;
• at the very end, the soil under the seedlings tightly tamped.

Seed preparation

When buying a bag of seeds, pay attention to their "age" - the best germination comes from material collected 2-3 seasons ago.

To begin with, they are carefully examined, discarding the damaged material. For greater certainty, "self-assembly" can be tested in a simple way. The seeds for 30-40 minutes are placed in a container filled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and monitor their reaction. Those that went to the bottom, definitely suitable for seedlings. At the same time they are disinfected with permanganate.

Immediately before sowing, the selected material is soaked for 8-12 hours in special growth stimulants. Most often for these purposes use such compositions:

• "Kornevin" (1 g of powder is enough for 1 l of liquid);
• "Zircon" at the rate of 1-2 drops per 300 ml of water;
• "Epin-extra". The same pair of drops is diluted in 100 ml of water.

Sowing seeds: the pattern and depth

The treated seeds are planted in already rammed and prepared soil.

For the future "elephant" the scheme provides for an interval between seeds of 2.5-3 cm. In large containers it is recommended to withstand a row spacing of 3-4 cm.

The depth of the holes is from 1.5 to 2 cm.After planting, the seeds are gently filled with soil, and immediately followed by the first watering with warm water using a sprayer. Then the container is covered with transparent covers, glass or film (only it should not touch the ground).

Sprouting conditions

Containers with seedlings are immediately transferred to a warm, dry place. Before the appearance of the first sprouts, the temperature will be optimal at 18-20 ° C. All this time, the film is rarely removed (the only exception is watering).

Shoots usually appear on the 7-10th day. Then the coating is removed, and the container is transferred to a place with a constant temperature of 15-17 ° C. After 6-7 days of such "hardening" seedlings can be returned to the room with the usual temperature for the dwelling.

Of course, the main requirements for this period are abundant light and watering of medium intensity (warm, but not hot water).

Care of seedlings

It boils down to the same measures: ensuring water balance, heat and light conditions.

The soil should not be crusted, but the wetting of the substrate is undesirable.All this time it is necessary to spray water, rather than pouring it in a direct stream (which breaks the earthy lump and can wash the seeds).

Here it is important to “catch” the balance between light and water - if there is not enough light, then the frequency of watering will decrease.

A separate topic is the pick. It is carried out after the seedlings "beat off" a pair of true leaves. It is done this way:

• seedlings are carefully dug out with a special mini spatula. To prevent damage to the stem, hold them by the leg;
• when the plant is already removed from the soil, carefully shorten the central root with scissors, leaving about 2/3 of the whole rhizome;
• in the “transfer” pot, a shallow lune is made (approximately at the level of the growth point, which is felt slightly above the root). The plant can be “precipitated” and 4-5 mm deeper than this reference point;
• lightly ramming layer, sprinkle the seedlings with earth;
• It remains to pour it and move it to a shaded place (for 2-3 days).

After picking, continue moderate watering. You can also make a small amount of mineral fertilizers for tomatoes.Look at the seedlings - if the shoots are too elongated or pale, you can feed them with a small dose of nitrogenous agents (they have a good effect on the growth of green mass).

Before this, read the instructions or consult with the seller - "bust" is also harmful.

Planting seedlings on a permanent place

Already “settled” tomatoes are getting stronger and pleasing to the eye, and the calendar reminds that the last month of spring is just around the corner. It's time to prepare for landing in open ground.

Terms of transplantation

Too hurry with such work is not worth it - you have to wait until the risk of repeated frost goes to zero.

But the heat-loving variety is very sensitive to the heating of the soil. Therefore, the best time to transfer to open beds will be the very end of May - the beginning of June (even in temperate climates). You can not wait, planting tomatoes in the beginning or middle of May. Although in such cases, the seedlings on the site, it is desirable to cover the film.

The easiest way is for owners of capital, heated greenhouses - the “elephant” can be transferred there in April.

Optimal scheme

The dimensions of the holes for seedlings are known to anyone who has ever encountered the cultivation of tomatoes - for the "tall" variety, you will need to dig a cube with sides of about 20-25 cm.

As for the scheme itself, it implies an aisle of 50 cm with an interval between bushes of 40-45 cm. That is, per 1 square meter. m you can put 2-3 seedlings (four on such a "latka" will be closely).

Features of care and cultivation agrotechnics

The growing process fits well with the usual pattern for all tomatoes. But many procedures are carried out more carefully, taking into account the requirements of this line.

Watering and loosening

Rapidly growing roots and abundant green mass necessitated frequent and abundant watering. The first is done right during planting, after the ground at the rhizome is only primed. Only warm water is used. In the summer you may need 2-3 approaches per week. Usual for one bush "dose" - 10 l. Most often it is ordinary water, but there is one trick that will emphasize the firm "sugar content" of fruits: in a 10-liter bucket filled with water, one more cup of ash and 1 tbsp. l salt. Under the bushes themselves make 0.5 liters of this solution.

The “focus” is simple but effective (although on dense salt marshes it is better to refuse such additives).On complex soils, it is better to add slurry or herbal mass settled in a barrel. For the same 10 l you need to take 1 l of any of these "ingredients", and the plant will respond well to such moisture.

Loosening after each watering is necessary, otherwise the roots will “steam up”, which will immediately affect growth. With weeds the same situation - they are removed immediately, not allowing them to grow to large sizes.

Masking and shaping the bush

Care for tall bushes is unthinkable without these manipulations.

Pysynok removed as early as possible, on giving them grow more than 2.5-3 cm. Wounds left in the sinuses, overgrown very quickly.

To get a good harvest, the bush is formed into one stem. At the same time, 3-4 brushes and a leaf growing above the uppermost one are left. The growth point located above it is gently pinched. Some grow "elephants" in two stalks.In such cases, 2-3 brushes are left on each of them, and the growth point is pinched above the sheet formed after the highest brush.

Garter

As they grow, bushes with heavy tomatoes are necessarily tied to supports.

At the beginning it can be stakes or rods - the growing seedlings will be enough. But it is much more practical to drive tubes and pull the tapestries into several levels (usually 3-4 rows are allowed).

Starting from mid-June, a daily inspection of the "plantation" is desirable - the stem is loading not only the branches, but also the growing heavy fruits. If necessary, the garter is immediately held with soft twine (hard wire can damage the branches or stick into the stems).

Feedings

During the season 3-4 "portions" of complex mineral fertilizers are made. They can be “spread out” in time, but one such feed must necessarily fall on the time of formation of the ovary.

Keep in mind that before flowering, the emphasis is on nitrogen compounds, whereas after the appearance of the ovary, superphosphate and magnesium sulfate are used. The dosage is usually indicated in the instructions.

A good effect is also provided by the monthly foliar application of home-made "organic". To make such a solution is easy:

• In 1 liter of boiling water is added 1 cup of ash.
• Then the "mix" is allowed to stand for 2 days.
• The mixture is filtered and diluted with a small amount of water.
• Spray the stems and leaves. Ideal if the procedure is carried out during the flowering period.

To deviate from the above schemes and breaks are not worth it - the fruits may turn out not so tasty.

We learned what the pink elephant line tomato is notable for; we studied the characteristics of large tomatoes and the general description of the variety. We hope these data will help our readers to get an unprecedented harvest of these impressive vegetables. Successes in the garden!