Secrets of the successful cultivation of roses on the trunk

Gorgeous trees with graceful trunks and luxurious crowns of velvet roses only at first glance seem unreal fantastic exotic. In fact, they are available to all flower growers. Moreover, they differ from ordinary species only by trimming, winter preparation and installation of supports. We will understand in more detail how to make a standard rose by yourself and what is needed for this.

What are these roses

Many beginners, mistaken, believe that this type of flower is a separate garden group. Although in fact it is just a reception of floral art, which skillful rose growers have created to emphasize the beauty and sophistication of these unsurpassed fragrant plants.

Undoubtedly, standard roses attract to themselves their unusual form and are of interest to find out what it is. Creating a similar beauty, gardeners try to evenly give decorativeness to all sides of the tree. In addition, it should blend harmoniously into the overall landscape of the garden. But you don’t have to worry about it at all.

Shtamby perfectly combined in group plantings with identical and bush roses, look single on lawns and mixborders. Often in roses, roses of varying height are arranged, thus forming an effective multi-tiered cascade.

There is no such place in the garden where a standard rose would be superfluous, in landscape design it is an invaluable exotic decoration, as is evident from the photos below.

Moreover, it can be made from any type and type of culture: even from tea-hybrid, miniature, large-color, floribunda, English "taverns" or from ground-covering and weeping small-colored roses.

How to choose seedlings when buying

From the quality of the seedling depends on the decorativeness and the potential of the trunk. Therefore, before choosing, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of the proposed range.

The purchase is recommended to make in specialized garden stores or nurseries, where you can also get expert advice.

Feel free to ask a lot of uncomfortable questions. Suspicion should cause ignorance sellers of their goods.

The firstwhat consultants need to be asked about - seedling age. Two-year specimens are considered more promising, since they already have a well-developed root system and a strong stem.

Note It stands on the garden group of the favorite variety.Further cultivation and care requirements depend on it. Be sure to ask about the stock, because its characteristics play a significant role in creating a flowering rosewood. Unwilling material For stock, experienced growers consider roses cinnamon and rubiginosis. This position is substantiated by a thick undergrowth, loose wood structure and strongly thorny sprouts.

• an even smooth bob (without sagging, spots, abrasions and other injuries of any nature), up to 1 cm in diameter for ordinary species, and up to 2 cm for weeping;
• evenly developed crown, which is based on 2-3 powerful sprouts;
• two or more grafts in the crown (only in such conditions the tree will be lush);
• lignified sprouts;
• closed rhizome (such instances are always fresh and easily take root in a new place).

Experienced rose growers share their own experience in creating standard roses. To do this, it is necessary to form a shrub on the briar trunk using a budding method or grafting with a bud-eye.

Choosing the right place

Wherever you plant a standard rose on your plot, it will look spectacular everywhere. But everywhere she will be comfortable, we shall understand in more detail.

Roses of any kind and selection prefer an open, protected zone from drafts, northerly winds, stagnant water and constant dampness. Also, when choosing, consider the location of groundwater - their proximity is extremely undesirable for shtamb.

Remember: these tender plants do not like the sun and feel bad in the shade. In such extreme conditions, they get burned or dragged out strongly, losing their attractiveness. The best option for the culture is the penumbra on the south side, somewhere near the fence or premises.

Planting a standard rose

Choosing the right place and a healthy seedling is only half of the successful cultivation of pink trees. For their quick rooting and full-fledged vegetation, it is necessary to prepare the terrain, planting material and not be mistaken with the terms of all the planned works. Let's figure out how to grow a standard rose in the step-by-step instructions below.

Optimal timing

Unconditionally, the best period for planting roses is spring. It is important to wait until the land on the site warms up above 15 degrees, and the weather is stable and warm outside.

Rose growers, citing their many years of experience in growing standard and bush forms, recommend rooting in the last decade of April until mid-May. Considering the fact that the purchased seedlings in most cases are sold with a closed root system, it is allowed to plant stem roses throughout the warm season. In the summer, such specimens require abundant and regular moisture.

Site preparation

All the preparatory work in this case, plan in the fall. They consist in deep plowing and fertilizing the land. For boles, as for other grafted samples, soil conditions do not play a big role.

Of course, to stimulate growth, plants need loose and nutrient-rich substrates. Roses feel most comfortable on light loams, which are diluted with river sand, peat, compost and organic matter during the preparation process.

But if the situation goes beyond the classical, then to adjust the depleted problem areas will need special agronomic knowledge. Experts advise on the enriched chernozem after dropping to make clay, and in places where there is an obvious lack of phosphorus - a solution from mullepot infusion, bone meal and superphosphate.

When using the last component, it is important to take into account the acidity of the substrate. In an acidic environment, it is highly undesirable. To neutralize the pH reaction, bone or phosphorus flour will be needed, but the desired result will come only after 3 years.

Sandy substrate, which is not very favorable for standard roses, differs in friability, air and water permeability, it quickly heats up, but has a small amount of micronutrients.

On such a site you will need to add 2 parts of clay and turf ground, ground into powder, and a little bit of humus will not interfere either.

If you are dealing with loams, when kneading a lump of earth in your hand, it quickly crumbles and easily breaks up into small lumps that do not stick together. Such land is available good aeration and many nutrients. Improve the substrate in three parts of coarse sand, compost and turf soil. Heavy clayey areas require special attention, in which the earth does not allow air and water to pass through badly, clumps together, dries for a long time, and, having lost moisture, cracks strongly.

Paint a picture of the constituent minerals that the plant needs at all stages of the growing season. But young and immature roots will be hard to break through the knocked down piles.

It is possible to adjust the terrain using a soil mixture from an equal amount of turf and leaf land, humus and compost.

If your choice fell on the area where the roses had previously grown, but for some reason they died, during the preparation you will need to remove about 70 cm of the upper layer and make a mound of fresh soil mixture.

This is necessary to reduce the risks of infection of shtambov diseases and pests of predecessors. In the case of bulk earth, you will need to dig up the area twice to achieve its breathability. A seedling must also be prepared for planting. Depending on its varietal characteristics, the crown is shortened and a plastic bag with moistened moss is put on it. This is done in order to protect the top of the tree from drying out during the rooting period.

Optimal scheme

Roses do not like crowding. It is comfortable for them to develop at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other. If you are planning to develop bush forms near the shtamb, take into account the height and diameter of the crown of both.

Indeed, often, without having calculated the volumes of neighboring plants, gardeners complain that low-growing varieties are lost in the composition.

For rooting of standard roses, they prepare a recess with a height and width of 70 cm.The size of the pit can vary depending on the rhizome. He should not be in the hole closely. Then, in the middle, a strong support is driven into the half-meter depth, the height of which should be below the trunk.

The bottom is first loosened with forks, and then covered with expanded clay. Then pour a mound of 5 cm in height from mixed turf, hardwood, peat, sand and clay.

The ingredients are added depending on the characteristics of the soil composition, as we have already mentioned above. The classic version provides for equal amounts of compost, clay, turf and hardwood land. When the pit is ready, the earthen clod with the trunk has been removed from the container and placed carefully into it. Top sprinkled with fertile substrate, watered and carefully tamped the hole. Pay attention that the root neck is 4-5 cm deep. In contrast to the bush forms, standard roses at the end of planting do not spud loose soil, but they tied the branches with fabric tape to the support in two places. When the rose takes root, the film is removed. And take shelter better in the evening or in cloudy weather. In such conditions, the plant is easier to survive the temperature change.

Combination with other plants

In the garden or in the garden, a rose, like a precious stone, will decorate any place. But not all plants are friendly towards these prickly neighbors. The specialists do not recommend to combine with them chamomile, asparagus, rudbeckia.

Better to choose a tandem of lavender, geranium, stonecrop, sage, undersized bells. Also shtaby are good with annuals: lobelia, ageratum, petunia. Some experimenters compose roses with a maned barley or gray fescue.

Experienced rose growers are advised to consider the volume of the perennial root system when creating compositions with young standard roses.

Often the neglect of this detail leads to the displacement of weak seedlings. This undesirable effect can be obtained every time you place plants in cramped quarters. Only the strong will survive.

Care Tips

Standard roses differ from their fellows in demanding conditions. During the entire growing season, the level of moisture in the soil, its looseness and nutritional value play an important role.

Particular attention should be paid to tying trunks to supports, preparing for winter and preventive measures against diseases and pests. Analyze all the details of care.

Watering, weeding and loosening

Water-loving culture throughout the warm season need to ensure regular watering. Immediately after planting, the stumps, so that their crown does not dry out, are placed in a moist environment.

The pristvolny circles moisten, even when the top layer of soil has not dried yet. Many owners facilitate the process of drip installations. If this is not possible, at least 20 liters of water should be poured under each mature plant. And this is done in special grooves near the roots, which at the end of the procedure are sealed with a rake. Sprinkling for shtambov is fraught with burns and the death of weak branches, so it’s better not to resort to this method.

Weeds are not the place to be in the rose garden, because they suck out useful trace elements from the soil depths, depriving the flowers of food. In addition, these thickets look unattractive.

Roses feel good in loose soft earth. Therefore, it is necessary to make it so with the help of hoes, regular weeding and mulch. To curb weeds and prevent evaporation of moisture under the shafts lined with peat, compost, humus or a mixture of the above components. Mulch pristvolnye circles preferably in the spring before the foliage.

Garter to support

As the boom develops, you will need replace the original support for a stronger one. It should be made of durable material: metal, plastic, fiberglass or wood.

It is installed on the opposite side of the trunk inclination, 10 cm departing from it. The pot roses will also need additional props so that when the wind gusts, the containers do not overturn under the weight of the branches. It is possible to fix branches to the support with tape, foam rubber, cloth patches that will not injure the plant.This is done in such a way that the shoots do not slip and rub against the garter.

Most often, the mount is formed as an eight just below the vaccine. It is unacceptable that sprouts frayed at the site of the garter, as this will cause significant damage to the crown.

Fertilization

During the growing season, roses need only 2 dressings. The first is relevant in the spring, and the second - after flowering. Young specimens are fertilized immediately after planting.

As fertilizer, you can use the purchased mineral complex means or rotted manure and humus. Organics are usually laid out annually in pristvolnyh circles in a thin layer.

Adult shades will need up to 6 kg of substance per square meter. For good growth, roses are needed: potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and magnesium. That the listed substances were easily acquired, they are brought in the wet soil.

Preventive treatment

Spray and standard forms of roses cause sympathy not only among people.Shchitovki, caterpillars, aphid, mites, earwigs and other harmful insects love to feast on the juice and young fibers of these plants.

They are also very sensitive to attacks of pathogenic fungi and bacteria. Immune resistance to parasites and microorganisms depends on the genetic characteristics of the stock and the grafted variety.

In order to prevent attacks of pests, experts advise at the beginning of the growing season to treat standard roses with insecticides ("Aktara", "Rose Сlear", "Bi-58 New"). These drugs will help at the first signs of the life of the parasites.

Among the diseases of the culture threatens all sorts of rot, spotting, virus mosaic and chlorosis. To protect your favorites from this misfortune, regularly inspect the foliage and stems, in time remove all the affected areas, not allowing further spread of pathogens. As a preventive measure, sprinkling with dissolved ferrous sulfate is appropriate.The working solution is prepared in clay or glass containers at the rate of 4 liters of substance per 14 liters of water.

Re-treatment is desirable after 4 weeks. For large foci of infection will need the help of fungicides.

Much more difficult is the situation with viral infections, which are almost impossible to cure. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of garden tools, always disinfect tools before cutting the crown and prevent harmful insects from entering the garden.

Pruning

Every gardener who takes on a pruner should understand that his main task is an cleaning plants damaged by frost, disease and insect sprouts, as well as removal of sprouts around the trunk and forming a rounded regular crown.

In the spring, work is carried out, taking into account the varietal characteristics of the grafted variety. For example, nursery experts advise not to cut shortly miniature roses, floribunda, hybrid tea. They need to leave at least 6 buds. If you break this rule and cut branches at the level of the 2-4th bud, you will get a deformed shape with powerful tall side shoots.

If you are dealing with a climbing garden group, cut out the skeletal shoots that bloomed last year, and shorten the young ones only slightly.

When young shoots are not present, do not remove the old whip completely, but only slightly cut off the tops on their side branches. A similar haircut is suitable for groundcover varieties.

All slices need to be sharp disinfected with potassium permanganate instrument. Ideally, the blade should go half a centimeter higher from the kidney. Sections with a diameter of more than 1 cm are necessarily sealed with garden pitch.

Preparing for the winter

Begin preparation for cold weather should be in advance, without waiting for the first frost. Approximately at the beginning of October or a couple of weeks earlier, branches are pruned in accordance with the varietal characteristics of the grafted variety.

Young shoots that did not have time to form and ripen, removed entirely. Otherwise, they will not be able to spend the winter and will lead to severe injury to the tree.

Experts advise roses from the group of hybrid tea and floribunda to shorten by 40 cm. On cascading and climbing small-color samples, pruning is carried out gently, barely touching the tops. In the process of preparation, you must remove all leaves from the crown, undermine the stem on one side and tilt it to the ground. Then a metal hook driven into the ground is fixed to the trunk in this position.

Some gardeners recommend laying a log at its base to avoid rifts.

We can not allow the crown to fall on the bare ground. Under it are spruce branches, and the top is covered with plastic wrap. The rhizome is hidden under a mound of dry substrate (some of them perform the same procedure with a crown). In winter, the structure with the standard rose spud snow.

All shelters can be removed only when warm weather is established and the threat of spring frosts is over. Usually this period falls in the middle of April. If tightened, the plant will die.

Be prepared that it is much more difficult to grow a stab rose yourself than a bush form. In addition, it will take a lot of time and effort.

About 3 years will be needed only in order to obtain a quality rose hips. But, when the plant blooms, you will see that the resources spent are worth it.