We fertilize the garden and vegetable garden slurry

Gardeners traditionally prefer organic fertilizers. For private farms it is a cheap and safe material that helps to fight for the harvest. But it is important to know how to interfere with the "organic", and how much to make it. Let's see what is useful on the site slurry.

Description and composition of fertilizer

Slurry refers to fast-acting nitrogen-potassium compounds. The basis of the solution is water (98.5-98.8%). The potassium content is on average 0.45%, while nitrogen - 0.25%. But phosphorus is very small: within 0.01% of the volume. The active ingredient is urea.

Potassium and nitrogen, therefore, dissolve well and are well absorbed by plants. Nitrogenous urea, reacting to the action of urobacterium, rather quickly passes into carbonic ammonium. At the same time, it quickly evaporates, thereby depleting the mixture (therefore, the liquid is kept in closed containers).

Storage conditions can adjust the value of the solution: the same nitrogen can "fall" to a concentration of 0.02%, or, conversely, "jump" to 0.8%. The same happens with potassium - the content can vary from 0.1% to an impressive 1.2%.

Speaking of what is liquid, it is worth mentioning one more thing: in terms of the efficiency of plant absorption, this means is closer to mineral water than to organic compounds.

How to get and store slurry

Its popularity is due to ease of preparation of the fertilizer. From the remanent you need only large volume containers. Best suited to the ground in a barrel barrel per 100-200 liters. "Ground" containers are suitable, for example, a tub.

Here is the list of ingredients:

• manure;
• water;
• superphosphate;
• ash.

The container is filled with approximately 1/3 of the volume of manure and is poured with water to the top. Then add superphosphate (50 g per 10 l bucket). Ash will need more - 1 kg / 100 l of liquid. All this is thoroughly mixed, and the barrel covered with a tight lid film. Give brew for 10-14 days, stirring occasionally. At the same time insects should not fall into the muck.

Fertilizer is often kept in the shade.On hot days, fermentation is much more active, but after removal, most of the nitrogen will simply evaporate. On the site the best place would be a barrel standing by the tree.

The main material used is manure, most often cow. You can take and pork - it is much richer in nitrogen (initially 0.31% versus 0.09% in the mullein).

Organic fertilizer application

Before feeding, slush must be mixed with clean water. This is a necessary measure - if you pour only the prepared concentrate, the roots will simply “burn out”.

It is used both in pure form and as an element of compost. At the same time, already dried peat is poured with slurry (per 1 kg of peat it takes from 0.5 to 2 liters of slurry). It takes into account the type of soil and its condition. For light, well-groomed soils, the concentration does not matter much, whereas the land with the release of limestone requires the smallest dose, and some farmers refuse to use this method.

It happens that peat is a little acid. This is corrected by adding 1% lime.

How to make slush, we already know, go directly to the application of the composition.

Feeding in the garden

Gardeners know that fertilizer and abundant feed can be applied from the second year of growth.

The slush is poured into rifle circles with the grooves made. They are trying to make a little more so that the nitrogen component gets closer to the rhizome. This treatment is done in the spring, before flowering. Water is “mixed” with slurry (5 liters per 1 l of funds, it is possible 1/6) and evenly poured at the rate of 10 liters per 1 sq. M of podstvolnoy area of ​​young wood. The old tree with developed branches will need two times more, but without fanaticism.

For poor soils, the concentration is increased 1.2-1.5 times, whereas for well-kept soil it can be diluted less.

The second feeding is done when annual shoots have gone to growth. If such a measure was not enough, then after 35-40 days there should be another application.

There is one more nuance: stone fruit trees feed through the stem circles from 2 to 5 years, in other species (apple, pear or cherry) there are no such “requirements”. With age, they only better tolerate such compounds.

Manure itself in the garden is used neatly, "shock" feeding is carried out once every 2-3 years, while the slurry is used much more often. This is due to the fact that a large amount of dry substrate can slow growth.

Use in the garden

The main garden crops tolerate top dressing, especially for pumpkin varieties. But the beans, peas and radishes to such irrigation are indifferent, and many gardeners do not add slush to them. This also applies to kohlrabi cabbage.

For each type of plant has its own technology. Although it is better to make slush after abundant watering.

Cucumbers require supplements in 2 weeks, the mixture with water in a ratio of 1:10 is poured over 1 liter under a bush. On a bucket of liquid, you can add 1 tablespoon of superphosphate or potassium sulfate. In the same amount of young zucchini and pumpkin.

The first feeding of tomatoes is done 10 days after planting in the ground. Approximately 10-14 days (that is, before flowering) is poured again. The maximum dose is 0.5 liters of solution under a bush.

The optimal time for the first introduction of cabbage - 2 weeks after planting (the same 0.5 liters under the bush). A couple of weeks should be re-treatment. With late varieties and mid-late lines it is a bit more difficult - 2 weeks after the second application, 1.5 liters of liquid are already poured in under the plant, after adding 30 g of superphosphate to 10 liters.

For bow follow the scheme 2-3 per 1 sq.m. By the time it is May - the first decade of June, when the feather grows weakly.

Preparing slurry for pepper is carried out with the participation of chicken manure. The first bay is carried out at 14-15 days after landing. At the same time, manure mixed with water in the ratio of 1:15 is added to the slurry. Both compositions are mixed and poured 1 l of funds for each bush. Re-feeding - immediately after flowering, when a little complex mineral water is added to the slush. In case of bad ripening, the third approach is made (after the first fruits appeared).

Under the beet, mullein in liquid form is poured after the bed has been thinned. 1 liter of liquid is added to 8 l of water, this is enough for 8 running meters of the row.

The benefits of using slurry for garden and garden crops

This composition has a number of advantages that make it almost indispensable in any area:

• Ease of preparation.
• Well mastered by most garden crops and fruit trees.
• Quickly absorbed by plants without additional processing.
• Helps seedlings at any stage of development. Stimulates the growth of "young" and supports the nutritional balance of powerful plants.
• Increases yield.
• Full safety of the solution with respect to the proportions and the correct introduction.

A possible disadvantage is associated with the latter factor. Any nitrogenous means (and slurry among them) in case of excessive introduction “work” on the green mass, and not on the development of inflorescences and fruits. This is worth remembering when preparing for processing.

We hope this information will be useful for beginning gardeners, and experienced gardeners will refresh some moments in memory. Good yields!